Breguet Classique 7225: high frequency, maximum elegance

Breguet has chosen to celebrate its 250th anniversary in a memorable way. Not with parties, spectacular events or interesting round tables, but by getting straight to the point to what it does best: creating unique watches. Like the splendid Classique 7225, the subject of this article. A timepiece that follows some of the wonders we have seen in recent months, such as the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035, the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255, the new Type XX, and the Classique Souscription. The latest watch to join this impressive list of excellences is Breguet’s tribute to one of its latest innovations, the magnetic pivot balance and high-frequency 10 Hz escapement, which can also be found in the Chronométrie 7727. The Classique 7225 is, in a sense, its worthy counterpart.

HEIR TO BREGUET’S INNOVATION

The mechanical invention behind the calibre that powers this watch could only have come from Breguet, which has historically been the brand of innovations – starting with Abraham-Louis and the tourbillon, theparachute and other insights that changed the course of watchmaking. The magnetic pivot balance is only the latest in this wave of technical excellence. This invention is not entirely new, as it dates back to over 10 years  ago (2013) and, despite its innovative nature, was ‘masked’ by the Maison under a cloak of classicism – the one that called to mind the Chronométrie 7727, which beneath an completely Breguet aesthetic hid a revolutionary technical insight.

Why? Because it exploited what is considered the worst enemy of a watch’s regulating organ – namely magnetism – to achieve extremely high precision. All this in a calibre, the 574DR, which oscillated at 72,000 vibrations per hour, or 10 Hz, a monstrous frequency for a mechanical watch. To refresh your memory on how the magnetic pivot works, you can read this article.

THE DIAL OF THE CLASSIQUE 7225

Building on this mechanical excellence, Breguet has made it a strong foundation on which to build one of the watches released on the year of its 250th anniversary: the Classique 7225. In this sense, the timepiece is in line with the aesthetics of the 2025 models and makes the 10 Hz oscillator even more elegant, if possible. It embodies the stylistic line chosen for the anniversary: an 18-carat Breguet gold case, without the classic ‘coin-edge’ mid-case and welded lugs. Instead of knurling, the side of the case features an elegant guilloché finish; the case measures 41 mm and has a more classic construction, with integrated lugs and a slightly curved profile reminiscent of the Souscription. Its thickness is also modest: 10.7 mm, not ‘disturbed’ at all by the domed sapphire crystal.

The dial is made of 18-carat Breguet gold and its aesthetics are inspired by an illustrious predecessor: Abraham-Louis Breguet’s watch no. 1176, one of the most famous pieces ever produced by the master, and one of the first with a four-minute tourbillon. The layout of the subdials includes central hours and minutes, a fan-shaped power reserve indicator at 6 o’clock, and two small seconds counters at 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock.

Why two counters like this? Because the one at 2 o’clock indicates the ‘classic’ small seconds, while the one at 10 o’clock has a hand equipped with a flyback function that is activated by pressing the button at 8 o’clock, whose shape resembles the ‘slide’ of a minute repeater. Essentially, this hand can be used to measure the duration of two events occurring simultaneously or intermediate times. It is a sort of small 60-second chronograph hidden beneath a classic design.

All this is harmonised within a variety of stunning finishes. The central parts of the three counters and the power reserve indicator are decorated with a fan-shaped guilloché pattern radiating from the centre to the periphery in an explosion of light. The dial also has a wavy guilloché pattern, which is interrupted by the outer circle of circular satin-finished minute markers, before resuming at the periphery. The circular satin finish is found on the circles of the three counters – hours and minutes (also engraved with Breguet’s secret signature) and the two small seconds – as well as on the power reserve fan. This alternation of finishes gives the entire dial of the Classique 7225 a magnificent stylistic coherence.

THE 74SC CALIBRE: BREGUET AND THE MAGNETIC PIVOT REGULATOR

However, such aesthetic beauty should not make us forget that the case also contains dazzling mechanicalbeauty, namely the 74SC calibre, whose basic architecture and technology have been taken from the 574DR that powered the Classique Chronométrie 7727. It should be noted that in these calibres, the use of a magnetic pivot aims to achieve a higher frequency without subjecting the movement parts to the stress due to the oscillation speed. The pivot is kept stable by the field generated between two magnets ensuring that its rotational action is not affected by gravity, and reducing friction.

To achieve this result, Breguet has placed a micro-magnet on both sides of the balance wheel in theClassique 7225 movement; together, they create an intense magnetic flux in which a slight imbalance keeps one end of the axis in constant contact with the ruby at its base. If the watch suffers a strong impact, the magnetic forces automatically re-centre the axis, making the balance wheel incredibly stable in terms of amplitude. The use of a magnetic pivot also significantly reduces friction and the resulting wear on components, such as the axis: its tip rotates against a single ruby, and therefore on a very limited area of the surface. 

This result would not have been achieved without careful design of the movement and, above all, without the use of state-of-the-art materials in the manufacture of the components. The magnetic system works perfectly because the double spiral of the balance wheel, the pallet lever and the escape wheel of the Classique 7225 are made of silicon, known for its anti-magnetic properties. All this contributes to a deviation in accuracy that is as incredible as the oscillation frequency: +/-1 second per day. 

In keeping with the aesthetic consistency that characterises all watches from the last 250 years, the movement of the Classique 7225 is also finished to the highest standards with bridges and plates coated in18-carat Breguet gold: their hand-engraved decoration reproduces the view of the valley where the Breguet manufactory is located. Finally, there is a special feature that only the owner of the watch can enjoy. Taking advantage of its very high oscillation speed, the escapement wheel creates an animation which, thanks to the appearance of 20 images per second, makes the numbers ‘1775’ and ‘2025’ alternate smoothly.

THE BREGUET HALLMARK

Such excellence is certified by the Breguet Hallmark. Those who read us regularly know what we are talking about. For those who do so less frequently, let us remind you that it is a seal of guarantee affixed to the case of the finished watch and on the buckle, with which the Maison certifies the quality of the components, the performance of the watch and the manufacturing ethics. It refers not only to the finishes, but also to the way in which they were obtained and the consistency of the overall design, all subject to strict internal regulations supervised by a special committee.

The Breguet Hallmark is associated with each watch identified by an individual number, finished and assembled, checked at every stage of production and certified at the final inspection to verify the overall performance of each watch. For example, based on the Breguet Hallmark, each timepiece is classified in terms of daily precision as either ‘Scientific’ (+/- 1 second), ‘Civil & Sport’ (+/- 2) or ‘Evening & Jewellery’ (-2/+6). An additional guarantee provided by the Breguet Hallmark is that all the components of its watches have been manufactured in Switzerland to the highest standards of fine watchmaking.

In light of all this, the inscription at 12 o’clock on the dial of the Classique 7225 takes on a powerful meaning. ‘Régulateur à pivot magnétique’, or ‘magnetic pivot regulator’: not just a name accompanying the timepiece, but a true signature. It reminds us that this prodigious watch is not for everyone, even though it is not a limited edition: £75,000 is a price reserved for the few. The same few who are able to understand, appreciate and evaluate such a reference.

By Davide Passoni