H. Moser & Cie: Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel22 February 2023
The H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar is widely considered to be the most legible and easy to set on the market, as it can be adjusted both forwards and backwards at any time of day. In 2023, H. Moser & Cie. introduces this iconic model with a tantalum case – the first ever use of this rare and prestigious metal in the brand’s history. In shades of anthracite and blue, this unique material is enhanced by the ancestral technique of enamelling, featuring vibrant colours and an ultra-contemporary hammered texture to bring the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel to life.
Discovered in 1802 by Swede Anders Gustav Ekeberg, tantalum is a highly dense and extremely strong metal. Tantalum surfaces in contact with air develop a fine layer of oxidation that protects the metal against aggression. Tantalum offers anti-corrosive properties, and does not react with most chemical agents or dissolve in acid. This extremely malleable metal is both hard and ductile, which means it can be easily drawn out and worked with precision and finesse. With a melting point of around 3000 °C, it requires advanced metallurgical expertise to machine. Its very dark grey colour is enhanced by bluish reflections, and does not tarnish. An exceptionally stable metal, tantalum combines beauty with durability.
And, as Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie., explains, while it certainly offers some interesting special properties, it was also a personal choice: “When I was 18, my parents gave me my first Haute Horology watch, which was made from tantalum. Ever since then, I have dreamed of introducing this metal at H. Moser & Cie., in spite of the challenges it poses. It took more than two years of testing before we were able to polish the surfaces of our case, a feat that few have been able to match, with most preferring to sandblast or satin-finish tantalum“.
An iconic model, the perpetual calendar by H. Moser & Cie. is known for its complex movement, which nevertheless boasts unrivalled ease of use. The absence of a subdial and date disc makes it very easy to read. With the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel, H. Moser & Cie. takes its minimalist philosophy even further by removing the brand logo and all indices except for those at 12 and 6 o’clock, in order to showcase the full beauty of the “Grand Feu” enamel dial. Starting with a pattern engrained onto a gold base, as if hammered, four different colour pigments are washed, finely crushed, then applied to create an ombré effect. Careful work and limitless patience are required for the master enameller to painstakingly apply the pigments, adding them one by one so that the colours oxidise and meld together when heated in the furnace, without any pixellation.
A translucent “Grand Feu” enamel dial must be fired twelve times in total to create the signature H. Moser & Cie. fumé effect. Each dial is unique. The finish is remarkable: resolutely contemporary, with a particularly complex texture and an intense hue christened Abyss Blue. At the centre, the small hand indicates the months, while a very large date window at 3 o’clock, with the “Flash Calendar” function providing an instant date change at midnight and a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock displaying the movement’s seven days of autonomy guaranteed by the double barrel, complete the piece. The time and date are easy to set using the crown, and can be changed at any time of the day.
But, where is the leap year indicator,? In order not to crowd a dial that is a proof of essentiality, it is positioned on the side of the hand-wound Calibre HMC 800 and visible through the caseback; a solution already used successfully in the Perpetual 1 and in the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar.
Completing the look of the new 42-mm Perpetual Calendar from the Endeavour collection is a beautiful grey kudu leather strap with a steel folding clasp engraved with the Moser logo. (Price CHF 75,000)