At Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, Bulgari introduces a new chapter in the Octo Finissimo story, refining proportions, architecture and overall wrist presence with remarkable precision while preserving its identity. The project traces its origins to the early 2000s, when the Maison began shaping a distinct watchmaking vision, gradually defining a language that balances formal rigour with technical experimentation. Over time, this vision has evolved into a continuous sequence of world records, with each new release pushing the boundaries of different complications and progressively redefining their limits.
The Octo Finissimo’s record-breaking trajectory begins in 2014 with the Tourbillon, powered by the BVL 268 calibre, just 1.95 mm thick and housed in a 5 mm case, immediately establishing itself as the thinnest hand-wound flying tourbillon ever produced. Two years later, Bulgari takes on one of the most demanding complications with the Minute Repeater, introducing the BVL 362 calibre at 3.12 mm within a 6.85 mm case, setting a new benchmark for the thinnest minute repeater in the world. In 2017, the Octo Finissimo Automatic further refines this pursuit of thinness. Equipped with the BVL 138 calibre, measuring 2.23 mm in thickness and reaching an overall case height of 5.15 mm, it becomes a new point of reference for ultra-thin automatic watches. This evolution continues in 2018 with the Tourbillon Automatic, where the BVL 288 calibre, just 1.95 mm thick and encased within a 3.95 mm case, pushes the limits even further, achieving a new record for automatic tourbillons.
By 2019, the same philosophy extends to more complex functions with the Chronograph GMT Automatic. Featuring the BVL 318 calibre at 3.30 mm and a 6.90 mm case, it redefines the standards for automatic chronographs with dual-time function. In 2021, Bulgari reaches one of its most sophisticated milestones with the Perpetual Calendar. The BVL 305 calibre, only 2.75 mm thick and fitted into a 5.80 mm case, earns the title of the thinnest perpetual calendar ever made and is awarded the Aiguille d’Or at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. This sequence reaches a turning point in 2022 with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, where movement and case are conceived as a single entity, resulting in an overall thickness of just 1.80 mm, with the caseback fully integrated into the mechanical structure. In 2024, Bulgari refines this achievement even further with a COSC-certified Ultra version measuring 1.70 mm, setting a new absolute record for the thinnest mechanical wristwatch ever created.
Today, the Octo Finissimo is no longer defined solely by its record-breaking trajectory. It has established itself as one of the most distinctive voices in contemporary watchmaking, where the pursuit of thinness evolves into a design language in its own right, shaping both the watch’s form and its identity.
THE NEW BALANCE OF THE OCTO FINISSIMO 37 MM
The new 37 mm diameter follows a naturally evolving trajectory while responding to an increasingly explicit demand for a more compact and versatile size. Bulgari embraces this need and translates it into a comprehensive recalibration of the project—one that goes beyond a simple reduction, redefining proportions, balance and wrist presence, making the watch more natural for everyday wear.
This pursuit of balance is also reflected in the bracelet, re-engineered with an innovative design featuring an integrated folding clasp with pushers, developed to enhance ergonomics. In the same spirit, the junction between case and bracelet evolves through a screw-based fixing system designed to integrate harmoniously with different materials and finishes, contributing to a highly precise aesthetic and functional unity.
Compared to the 40 mm version – which, over the years, has embodied the most radical expression of research into thinness and technical performance—the new Octo Finissimo 37 mm introduces a more versatile interpretation while preserving the collection’s defining design codes. Proportions are rethought, the relationship with the wrist becomes more harmonious, and the watch takes on a more lifestyle-oriented dimension. The collection is offered in four variations, executed in titanium and gold, each with its own interpretation of materials and finishes.
THE BVF 100 CALIBRE
At the heart of this evolution lies a renewed focus on mechanics, expressed through the new BVF 100 automatic calibre, entirely developed in-house. Measuring just 2.35 mm in thickness, it integrates a high-efficiency micro-rotor and delivers a 72-hour power reserve.
The movement is the result of three years of development and achieves a 20% reduction in overall volume compared to the previous generation. Despite being 0.12 mm thicker, this choice reflects a deliberate emphasis on long-term reliability and stability rather than absolute thinness. Finishing includes radial Côtes de Genève and perlage, while the construction reveals an exceptionally precise management of tolerances, essential within such an advanced level of miniaturisation. This evolution extends beyond the movement: looking closely at the case, a newly refined profile for the octagonal screws emerges, redesigned to integrate more seamlessly into the overall architecture of the watch.
SANDBLASTED TITANIUM
The collection is composed of four variations, yet the natural starting point is the most iconic model: the sandblasted titanium version. It is here that the identity of the Octo Finissimo finds its purest expression. The matte finish absorbs light and emphasises the depth of the construction, making the sequence of planes that defines the case particularly legible. The opaline titanium dial, paired with black indices and hands, maintains an essential and rigorous language, while the integrated bracelet continues the design of the case without interruption, reinforcing the perception of a compact and well-balanced object. The price is € 17,700.
POLISHED AND SATIN-FINISHED TITANIUM
This model introduces a more dynamic interpretation of the Octo architecture, where the dialogue between satin-brushed and polished surfaces enhances the sharpness and definition of the case. The result is a more graphic expression of its geometry, without disrupting the overall balance of the design. The opaline titanium dial, combined with rhodium-plated indices, maintains a controlled and cohesive palette, while the integrated bracelet, finished with the same alternation of surfaces, reinforces the visual continuity of the watch. The price is € 18,500.
YELLOW GOLD
In its 18-carat yellow gold execution, the Octo Finissimo takes on a more assertive and material presence, entering into a direct dialogue with the Maison’s jewellery heritage. The interplay of satin-brushed and polished surfaces amplifies the volumetric perception of the case, highlighting its architectural construction. The tone-on-tone dial, with yellow gold-plated indices and hands, defines a compact and cohesive aesthetic, while the integrated bracelet, crafted in the same material, completes an object that retains its formal rigour. The price is € 50,700.
THE MINUTE REPEATER
The titanium Minute Repeater stands as the most technical expression of the 37 mm iteration, where the pursuit of thinness meets mechanical complexity at its highest level. Driven by the hand-wound BVL 362 manufacture calibre, the watch takes full advantage of titanium’s acoustic properties to enhance sound diffusion, while the opaline dial with openworked indices subtly reveals the nature of the complication. Bulgari demonstrates how the pursuit of thinness can coexist with one of the most demanding complications in high watchmaking, with a price available upon request reflecting the level of complexity of its execution.
A NEW CHAPTER FOR THE OCTO FINISSIMO
At Watches and Wonders Geneva, Bulgari’s presence takes shape through a space that reflects its Italian identity, defined by a careful balance of materials, proportions and architectural references. The same approach extends to the watches themselves, where volumes and surfaces play a central role in shaping the overall design.
With the Octo Finissimo 37 mm, Bulgari is not simply introducing a new variation, but redefining the scale of the project. More compact, more balanced and more natural on the wrist, this model marks a stage of maturity in which the original radical vision is preserved, yet expressed with greater control and awareness. A quiet evolution, but one that clearly reflects the Maison’s ability to refine its icons with precision and consistency.
By Elisa Copeta