Breguet: Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 539520 May 2019
The new Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 enhance the extreme finesse of its 581 caliber thanks to a new design and an extreme skeletonization which led to the removal of almost 50% of the material.
With a thickness of 3mm, the extra-thin 581 Caliber is one of the finest self-winding tourbillon movements in the world. For instance, the rotor was placed on the periphery of the plate, saving on thickness while at the same time preserving a clear view of the mechanism. The tourbillon has benefited from a complete redesign. The titanium carriage engages directly with the wheel train, not via the intermediary of a pinion at its base, and, what’s more, the silicon escapement has been given a distinct angled shape, something that considerably saves on space. A very unique structure, of which Breguet is the only series manufacturer.
Ultra-lightweight and equipped with an outstanding power reserve of 80 hours, for the first time the Caliber 581 “already featured in models 5377 and 5367” has been incorporated in a fully skeletonized design. The gold plate and bridges have been hollowed out so as to display the mechanical anatomy of the movement. The challenge of this undertaking lies primarily in removing as much material as possible, while preserving the technical properties of the various different components. A truly novel watchmaking complication made even more challenging by the choice of gold.
What is unique about the movement, is its outstanding decoration and finishing –first of all, the hand-crafted engine-turning, or guilloche design, of the remaining plate surface and the Clous de Paris motif. The sharp edges are chamfered by hand, using a file until a perfectly smooth and even 45-degree bevel is created. Significant engraving work is then carried out by hand for different inscriptions as well as borders to frame the holes.
Inside the 41mm rose gold case it’s possibile to admire the majesty of the sapphire dial features applied hour markers in blued gold, the offset hours chapter with roman numerals “created using galvanic growth” and the timer is laser-engraved and filled with blue varnish. This design is rounded off with traditional blued moon-tipped hands and soldered horns in the true Breguet style. Water-resistant to 30 meters, the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 is available with a gray movement in a rose gold case (CHF 220.000), or with a rose movement in a platinum case (CHF 235.000).