Audemars Piguet: Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT Green22 September 2022
The Royal Oak Concept saw the light of day in 2002 to celebrate the Royal Oak’s 30th anniversary. For the occasion, Audemars Piguet released a 150-piece limited edition inspired by Concept cars that combined titanium with Alacrite 602, a light yet highly resistant alloy mainly used in the aeronautical industry. While the bezel retained the Royal Oak’s trademark octagonal shape, the massive rounded 44 mm case, whose ergonomic curvature matched the natural shape of the wrist, brought this timepiece to new horizons. To complement the case’s futuristic aesthetic, the dial exposed the advanced hand-wound mechanism, while providing a variety of innovative functions: a crown position indicator, a dynamograph displaying the mainspring torque and a linear power- reserve display. The tourbillon cage and its shock-absorbing bridge was also visible at 9 o’clock.
Although originally conceived as a one-off limited edition, the Royal Oak Concept established an entirely new aesthetic for 21st-century Haute Horlogerie and led to the creation of a collection.
Today, 20 years after its debut, Audemars Piguet presents the new Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT, the first watch in this family to be made with green ceramic inserts. A 44 mm titanium case, green ceramic bezel, crown and pushers, and a black movement with green CVD inserts matching the bezel shade – a powerful contrast that accentuates the watch’s high-tech aesthetic.
The hand-wound Calibre 2954 of the new Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT combines the prestige of the flying tourbillon with state-of-the-art displays: a second time zone indication and a crown position indicator at 6 o’clock with the letters H, N and R respectively standing for the time-setting, neutral and winding positions of the winding stem.
The GMT display located at 3 o’clock provides an instant reading of the time in a second time zone. It is adjusted using the push-piece at 4 o’clock. The indication of the second time zone, based on 12 hours, comprises two superimposed discs. The hour disc, which completes a rotation in 12 hours, is crafted in sapphire and encompasses white figures outlined in black. In contrast, the day/night disc, honed from brass, completes a turn in 24 hours and has two coloured areas: a white half for daytime and a green CVD-coloured half representing night time.
Calibre 2954 is equipped with the Manufacture’s patented parallel double barrel system which ensures that the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT runs for as many as 10 days, generating a constant force during approximately 237 hours of autonomy. The energy from the two barrels is fed into the geartrain at the same time via a single pinion bridging the two, ensuring smooth energy transmission. While this system reduces pressure in the gearing, the friction in the two barrels is used to offset torque variation and increases precision, power reserve and reliability.
THE GREEN TOUCH
As per Royal Oak Concept design codes, the architectural movement takes centre stage on both the dial and caseback sides. To further enhance the introduction of green ceramic, the Calibre 2954 has evolved to contrast the movement’s black PVD bridges with evocative green CVD-coloured inserts. A very thin layer of green colouring, specifically developed for the occasion, has been applied by Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD). A precursor gas is injected into a chamber, which is then heated until the gas breaks down and bonds to the surface of the different elements. In addition to offering a rich play of light, this technique ensures colour homogeneity across the components, as well as unalterable colouration over time.
The timepiece’s contrasting tones are illuminated by pink gold accents. The pink gold hands filled with luminescent coating and the applied AP monogram at 12 o’clock are echoed by the pink-gold- toned flying tourbillon cage and escapement components peeking through the openworked bridges. The transferred white hour-markers on the black inner bezel add yet another bright touch.
A green rubber strap, fitted with a sandblasted titanium AP folding clasp, completes the look of the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT. The watch also comes with an additional black rubber strap for CHF 198,900. NON limited edition!