Vacheron Constantin’s Historiques 222: balance, beauty and tradition

When it comes to timepieces that have turned into myths, historical watchmaking is made up not only of great names but also of numbers. Numbers which, when it comes to references, become synonymous with the models – think of 15202 for the Royal Oak, 3810 for the Breguet Type XXI, 5711 for the Nautilus – but which, when they give their name to a watch, enter the watch Hall of Fame through the front door. Such is the case with Vacheron Constantin’s 222: born in 1977 and re-introduced in the full gold version in 2022, it makes its debut into the new millennium at the beginning of 2025 with a steel case and bracelet. An outfit it already embraced 48 years ago.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN 222: THE ORIGINS

In fact, the 222 was not Vacheron Constantin’s first attempt to create a sporty-chic watch. In 1975 the company had created the Reference 2215, the Chronometre Royal: a rectangular watch with sculpted case corners, a soft-edged octagonal bezel and an integrated bracelet. It was not very successful and went out of production in 1977. Its replacement by something more commercial was therefore a matter of urgency for Vacheron Constantin.

As chance would have it, at that time the brand was one of the first clients of Hysek Styling, the design studio that Jörg Hysek, a brilliant young designer of German origin with a background in watchmaking, had recently set up after working four years at Rolex. From his pencil came the 222, with which Vacheron Constantin celebrated the unusual anniversary of its 222-year history.

The result was surprising. The dial was available in blue or anthracite grey, and the case shape was a tonneau base with a very distinctive notched bezel, which made the watch interesting without being unusual. A key point, considering that mechanical watchmaking was in decline at the time and the traditional customer was vital for such an old brand. It was driven by the calibre Jaeger-LeCoultre 920 1120, and the integrated bracelet was by the best company in that segment: Gay Frères.

Unveiled at the Basel Fair in 1977, the 222 was sold at the time in a set with a money clip that echoed the design of the bezel, which, together with the gold Maltese cross in the bottom right corner of the case, was intended to make the watch recognisable. It was available in three sizes – 37 mm with two hands, 34 mm with three hands, 24 mm with quartz calibre – in steel, yellow gold, white gold or two-tone. There was no lack, over the years, of precious versions set with diamonds.

THE NEW HISTORIQUES 222

Discontinued in 1984, Vacheron Constantin relaunched it three years ago in the full gold version, which was one of the stars at the 2022 edition of Watches and Wonders Geneva. The decision to take inspiration from the reference 44018 in yellow gold with a 37 mm case was not a coincidence: it is perhaps the one that has remained most in the memory of enthusiasts as the most emblematic of the entire 222 line since its origins.

As always when we talk about Vacheron Constantin’s collection (of which the 222 is a part), we are referring to the Historiques line, that is watches that are not identical replicas of the original timepieces, but their reinterpretation. The difference lies in the use of the latest technical innovations that increase their reliability and comfort. Otherwise, the modern 222 in yellow gold has many similarities and only a few slight differences with the original.

As for the common features, we have the same 37 mm diameter, fluted bezel, the integrated, tapered bracelet, and the matt gold dial. On the latter there are ‘philological’ details such as the word ‘Automatic’ at 6 o’clock – written in the typeface of the time – and the Maltese Cross, Vacheron Constantin’s symbol, engraved in the bottom right corner of the case. The current champagne colour has a slightly lighter tone than its predecessor, to the benefit of legibility. 

The differences and improvements concern visible and less visible aspects. Starting with the automatic calibre 2455/2, which works at 28,800 vibrations per hour – as opposed to the 19,800 of the movement encased in the original model. Its oscillating weight, developed for this specific watch, is engraved with the original 222 logo and surrounded by a fluted motif echoing the design of the bezel. Unlike the original, which had a closed case back engraved with 222, on the new reference it is in sapphire crystal.

Speaking of the movement, the adoption of the new calibre has resulted in a slight relocation of the date window towards the inside of the dial, freeing up the chapter ring and achieving a more legible and uncluttered display. The readability is boosted by a more effective Super-LumiNova coating on the hands and hour markers. 

Small but significant interventions have also been made on the bracelet, which is now fitted with a three-blade clasp, instead of two as on the 1977 piece. In addition, work has been done on the aesthetics by hiding the pins of the links, which were once visible; in this way, visually the bracelet looks even more refined, and comfort is improved.

GOLD OR STEEL, SAME PERFECTION

These are all details that can be found on the steel version of the 222, presented by Vacheron Constantin in January and which kicked off the celebrations of the Geneva-based manufacturer’s 270th anniversary. Also very faithful to the original, it was immediately appreciated by the market probably because, with this watch, the maison has listened in some way to the wishes that enthusiasts and collectors began to express after the gold reference was released. That is, a 222 in steel, also a tribute to the past and, above all, more accessible. If the gold reference costs a good 82,000 euros (if only for the more than 200 grams of gold between the case and the bracelet), the steel version stops at 35,600.

As exclusive as the gold version, the steel version is also distinguished by its very high level of finishing. The vertically satin-brushed crown and bracelet, the circular satin-finished bezel, the polished hour markers, the hand-bevelled gear trains and bridges decorated with a Côtes-de-Genève motif, the circular-grained plate: all these details reveal the attention to each and every part of the timepiece that is inherent to the universe of  haute horlogerie, and to Vacheron Constantin.

There are also less visible but equally significant updates. For example, compared to the earlier model, we now have a tripartite case, consisting of the case middle, bezel and back. On the original 222, it was single piece, which meant that the movement had to be recessedfrom  above, making any intervention by a watchmaker quite complex. In addition, the dial has enlarged baton hour markers, thicker and longer for better legibility.

When talking about “his” 222, Jörg Hysek put it this way: ‘I wanted to design a watch that was elegant and sporty while maintaining the right balance between these two elements, in harmony with Vacheron Constantin’s classic and refined universe’. He seems to have succeeded as, according to Alexandra Vogler, CMO of the brand, ‘the distinctive character of the 222 has made it one of the most recognisable models in recent decades. By highlighting Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary with this emblematic, vintage yet resolutely contemporary watch, the Maison interweaves past and present’. Because now, 222 is not just a number anymore.

By Davide Passoni