There are very few innovations that have shaped the course of watchmaking as profoundly as the Oyster. Introduced by Rolex in 1926, it stands as one of the most pivotal developments in the field, a technical construction that, for the first time, brought waterproofness to the wristwatch, redefining its structure, reliability and scope of use. Developed by the visionary Hans Wilsdorf, the Oyster system is built around a hermetically sealed case, with a screwed case middle, bezel and caseback, a solution that marked a decisive shift in the design of the modern watch. Over the decades, this approach has not only supported the Brand’s technical evolution, but has also intersected with key moments and figures in contemporary history, from Winston Churchill to Martin Luther King Jr., anchoring the Oyster far beyond the boundaries of watchmaking itself. In 1931, with the introduction of the Perpetual rotor, this concept reached completion, giving rise to a technical architecture that would go on to define Rolex’s identity in a lasting way.
One hundred years on from that breakthrough, Rolex’s presentation at Watches and Wonders 2026 follows a remarkably precise line of continuity. The collection is structured around the Brand’s core families, each defined by a clear function and identity: Oyster Perpetual, Datejust, Yacht-Master II, Day-Date and Cosmograph Daytona. Evolution takes place through a rigorous process of refinement, spanning materials, construction architectures and certification standards. Alongside this, a further structural element runs across the entire collection, the Superlative Chronometer certification, now applied to every model introduced this year. From 2026, Rolex has further strengthened its evaluation criteria, introducing new parameters related to resistance to magnetic fields, reliability and long-term durability, monitored throughout every stage of design and production. These build on already established requirements for precision, waterproofness, self-winding performance and power reserve, all assessed on the finished watch rather than the movement alone. The result is an exceptionally stringent in-house standard, verified through hundreds of checks and validated by independent bodies, ensuring consistent performance on the wrist.
OYSTER PERPETUAL: ONE HUNDRED YEARS OF AN ICON
A century after its introduction, the Oyster continues to hold a central position within the Rolex universe. At this year’s Watches and Wonders, Rolex dedicates to the Oyster Perpetual a series of variations that revisit this legacy through different expressions and in a contemporary lens, yet with the same underlying coherence.
OYSTER PERPETUAL 41 Ref.134303
The Oyster Perpetual 41 is the model that most explicitly takes on the role of the centenary timepiece. Presented in yellow Rolesor, it pairs a yellow gold bezel and winding crown with an Oystersteel case and bracelet, a configuration that echoes some of the earliest Oyster examples while reworking an aesthetic deeply rooted in the Brand’s history in a contemporary way. The bracelet further distinguishes itself through the choice of rendering the central links in Oystersteel as well, in continuity with the outer links and the case middle, rather than in yellow gold as in more traditional Rolesor configurations. References to the anniversary are numerous yet seamlessly integrated: the raised “100” on the winding crown, the “100 years” inscription on the slate dial at 6 o’clock replacing the traditional “Swiss Made”, and Rolex’s signature green, echoed in the minute track and in the pad-printed logo on the dial.
This model is powered by the calibre 3230, a self-winding mechanical movement with a bidirectional Perpetual rotor, entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Equipped with a Chronergy escapement, a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring and a high-performance Paraflex shock absorber, it delivers a power reserve of approximately 70 hours and a precision of −2/+2 seconds per day, with the movement cased. The 41 mm Oyster case, featuring a monobloc middle case, screw-down caseback and Twinlock crown, is guaranteed waterproof to 100 metres, while the three-link Oyster bracelet, with Oysterclasp and Easylink comfort extension link, completes a construction focused on robustness, comfort and visual continuity. The price is € 9,500.
OYSTER PERPETUAL 36 Ref.126000
With the Oyster Perpetual 36, Rolex turns its attention to dial surface and to the depth of its own aesthetic heritage. Crafted in Oystersteel, the model features a lacquered multicolour dial with a Jubilee motif, here entirely reinterpreted in a more graphic, luminous and contemporary composition. The letters of the “Rolex” name are distributed across the surface in a play of contrasts involving ten different shades, resulting in a dial with strong personality yet perfectly controlled. The execution of this dial requires a particularly complex process, as the colours are not applied simultaneously but one after another using pad printing, with an extremely high level of precision needed to ensure the exact placement of each shape and each letter.
The Oyster Perpetual 36 is also equipped with the calibre 3230, featuring a Chronergy escapement, blue Parachrom hairspring, Perpetual rotor and approximately 70 hours of power reserve. The 36 mm Oyster case, waterproof to 100 metres, retains all the construction features that define the collection, from the screw-down caseback to the Twinlock crown, while the Oyster bracelet with Oysterclasp and Easylink ensures both robustness and fluidity on the wrist. The stated price is € 6,600.
OYSTER PERPETUAL 34 Ref.124205
The Oyster Perpetual 34 interprets the same idea through a different shade of precious metal. Here, the case and bracelet are crafted in 18 ct Everose gold, Rolex’s proprietary alloy, paired with a lacquered blue stone dial, also new to the collection. As with the 28 mm model, the indices at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock are made of natural stone, in this case dumortierite, a blue mineral with lighter or deeper tonal variations that introduces a subtle and sophisticated chromatic shift.
The Oyster Perpetual 34 is fitted with the calibre 2232, featuring a silicon Syloxi hairspring, Perpetual rotor and approximately 55 hours of power reserve. The 34 mm Oyster case, with monobloc middle case, screw-down caseback and Twinlock crown, is guaranteed waterproof to 100 metres. The 18 ct Everose gold Oyster bracelet also integrates ceramic inserts within the links, improving longevity and smoothness, and is equipped with an Oysterclasp and Easylinkextension system. The −2/+2 seconds per day precision and Superlative Chronometer certification confirm the model’s full alignment with the manufacture’s highest standards. The price is € 37,600.
OYSTER PERPETUAL 28 Ref.276208
With the Oyster Perpetual 28, Rolex introduces a new expression of precious metal within the collection. The case and bracelet are crafted in 18 ct yellow gold, while the lacquered green stone dial expands the Brand’s colour palette with a previously unseen shade. Defining the model are the indices at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock in heliotrope, a natural stone used here for the first time by Rolex in the Oyster Perpetual range. Cut in an ogive shape on the upper side, these indices are designed to enhance the structure and tone of the stone while avoiding any unwanted reflections. The satin-finished surfaces of the case and bracelet interact with the polished domed bezel, giving the watch a presence that feels refined yet restrained.
The movement is the calibre 2232, also entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. It is a self-winding mechanical movement with a bidirectional Perpetual rotor, featuring a silicon Syloxi hairspring, a paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus escape wheel and a Paraflex shock absorber. The power reserve is approximately 55 hours, while precision remains within −2/+2 seconds per day. The 28 mm Oyster case is waterproof to 100 metres, the 18 ct yellow gold Oyster bracelet incorporates ceramic inserts within the links to enhance both fluidity and resistance to wear, and is fitted with an Oysterclasp and Easylink comfort extension link. The price is €29,700.
DATEJUST 41 Ref.126334
Introduced in 1945, the Datejust holds a unique position in the history of watchmaking. It was the first wristwatch to combine chronometer certification, automatic winding and waterproofness while displaying the date in a window on the dial, bringing together in a single architecture some of the most important innovations developed by Rolex over the years. Since then, the Datejust has established itself as the Brand’s archetype of the classic watch, maintaining a strong formal and functional continuity while continuously evolving on both a technical and aesthetic level.
The version presented at Watches and Wonders 2026 introduces a new interpretation of the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 in white Rolesor, a combination of Oystersteel and white gold, where the fluted bezel interacts with the solidity of the case and bracelet. The central element is the lacquered green ombré dial, a signature Rolex shade developed here through a process entirely based on lacquering: the base is created by applying a rich green lacquer, while the peripheral gradient takes shape through a concentric spraying of black lacquer, creating a progressive and precisely controlled visual depth.
On this surface, the white inscriptions stand out with clarity, while the 18 ct white gold indices and hands, fitted with Chromalight luminescent material, ensure consistent legibility in all conditions. The date window at 3 o’clock, a defining feature of the Datejust since its introduction, benefits from the sapphire Cyclops lens with anti-reflective coating, enhancing visibility and reinforcing its function. The 41 mm Oyster case, machined from a solid block of Oystersteel, is designed to ensure both robustness and elegance, with a hermetically screwed caseback and a Twinlock winding crownequipped with a double waterproofness system. The sapphire crystal, virtually scratchproof, completes a construction waterproof to 100 metres, designed to optimally protect the movement.
Inside the case is the calibre 3235, a self-winding mechanical movement with Perpetual rotor, entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Featuring a high-efficiency Chronergy escapement, a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring and a Paraflex shock absorber, the calibre delivers high standards of precision, reliability and autonomy, with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours and an accuracy of −2/+2 seconds per day. The three-link Oyster bracelet completes the watch: equipped with an Oysterclasp folding clasp and Easylink extension system, it allows for quick length adjustment while maintaining full coherence with the overall architecture of the timepiece. The price for this model is €9,050.
DAY-DATE 40 Ref.228235JG
Introduced in 1956, the Day-Date brought one of the most emblematic functions in modern watchmaking: the full display of the day of the week on the dial. The first wristwatch to combine this indication with the date, automatic winding and chronometer certification, it quickly established itself as a complete synthesis of the innovations Rolex had developed up to that point. Over the decades, the Day-Date became closely associated with leading institutional and political figures. Worn by numerous world leaders, including Eisenhower, Johnson and Kennedy, this timepiece entered the collective imagination under the nickname “President”. A name that refers not only to those who wore it, but also to the dedicated President bracelet, designed specifically for this model and now an integral part of its identity.
From the very beginning, the Day-Date has been crafted exclusively in precious metals, a choice that defines its position within the Rolex collection. The version presented at Watches and Wonders 2026 continues along this line with the introduction of the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 in 18 ct Jubilee Gold, a new alloy entirely developed and produced in-house, conceived to express a tone that sits between yellow, white and Everose gold. The light green aventurine dialintroduces a particularly refined material dimension. Its surface, crossed by fine sparkling reflections, creates a subtle yet continuous luminous effect that integrates seamlessly with the tone of the case and bracelet, maintaining a controlled and legible display at all times. The 40 mm Oyster case, with monobloc middle case, screw-down caseback and Twinlock crown with double waterproofness system, ensures water resistance to 100 metres, while the President bracelet, with its three-piece semi-circular links, guarantees formal continuity, comfort and stability on the wrist.
This model is powered by the calibre 3255, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Equipped with a Chronergy escapement, blue Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers, it delivers high standards of precision, reliability and autonomy, with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours and an accuracy of −2/+2 seconds per day.
In this configuration, the Day-Date 40 joins the off-catalogue collection and is expected to be offered at an indicative price of around € 60,000, pending official confirmation.
COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA Ref.126502
Introduced in 1963, the Cosmograph Daytona was created to meet the needs of professional racing drivers, becoming over time one of the most recognisable chronographs in contemporary watchmaking. Its name remains closely tied to the world of motorsport and the Daytona circuit, while its identity has also been shaped by iconic figures such as Paul Newman and Sir Jackie Stewart, who have helped cement its connection to the automotive world.
The version presented at Watches and Wonders 2026 introduces a Rolesium configuration, combining Oystersteel and platinum. The high-technology ceramic Cerachrom bezel, with tachymetric scale, is designed to ensure high resistance to scratches and long-term colour stability. In this new interpretation, the numerals of the tachymeter scale are arranged horizontally, a tribute to the first Cosmograph Daytona, and with their contemporary typography appear almost suspended across the surface of the bezel, creating a more dynamic visual effect.
The white enamel dial, crafted using the Grand Feu technique, stands out for the depth of its surface and the quality of its finish, maintaining chromatic stability and intensity over time. The chronograph counters integrate precisely into the composition, ensuring clear readability of the information. The 40 mm Oyster case, waterproof to 100 metres, retains the model’s characteristic robust construction, with monobloc middle case, screw-down caseback and Twinlock crown. The three-link Oyster bracelet, fitted with an Oysterlock safety clasp, ensures both stability and comfort even under dynamic conditions.
Inside is the calibre 4131, a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex, designed to deliver precision, reliability and ease of use. The movement is visible through a sapphire caseback, an element that offers a new perspective on the movement and highlights its internal architecture. The Cosmograph Daytona Rolesium joins the off-catalogue collection and is expected to be offered at an indicative price of around € 56,000.
YACHT-MASTER II Ref.126680
With the new generation of the Yacht-Master II, Rolex revisits one of its most complex models with a focused approach, simplifying readability and usability without reducing its technical sophistication. The result is a timepiece with a more essential feel, where every element has been recalibrated to improve ergonomics, clarity and functional coherence.
The dial adopts a cleaner layout, defined by the broad indices typical of Rolex Professional watches, while the countdown minute track is moved to the rehaut, contributing to a more efficient visual organisation of information. The contrast between the matte white dial and the deep blue Cerachrom bezel insert reinforces the model’s nautical identity, while the pushers, inspired by sailing winches, underline its direct connection to the marine environment.
At the core of the Yacht-Master II is the programmable countdown function, developed to support the starting phases of a regatta. In this new generation, Rolex has thoroughly reworked its operation to improve both intuitiveness and efficiency. The setting of the countdown is now handled exclusively via the lower pusher, simplifying interaction with the watch in the most critical moments. This evolution is paired with a substantial change in legibility: the dedicated countdown hands now rotate counterclockwise, offering a more immediate perception of the remaining time. A solution that preserves the complexity of the function while making it easier to read at a glance, further reinforcing the instrument-driven nature of the watch.
Powering the model is the calibre 4162, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex, with an approximate 72-hour power reserve, specifically engineered to integrate the countdown function with mechanical memory and on-the-fly synchronisation. The 44 mm Oyster case, waterproof to 100 metres, retains the Brand’s signature construction, with a monobloc middle case, screw-down caseback and an 18 ct yellow gold Triplock winding crown, equipped with a triple waterproofness system. The high-technology ceramic Cerachrom bezel, scratch-resistant and virtually impervious to colour fading, features the graduated scale and enhances overall legibility, while also playing a functional role in activating and adjusting the countdown.
The three-link Oyster bracelet is designed to ensure robustness and comfort even in dynamic conditions. Fitted with an Oysterlock safety clasp, it provides a secure and stable fit on the wrist. The Yacht-Master II is offered in two versions, Oystersteel and 18 ct yellow gold, both conceived to meet different needs while preserving the model’s technical vocation. The price is € 20,050 for the steel version and € 57,100 for the gold one.
CONCLUSIONS
One hundred years after the introduction of the Oyster, what stands out is not so much the evolution itself, but the way it is carried out. Rolex works through minimal variations, often almost imperceptible, yet always decisive: a surface, an alloy, a rethought function, a refined balance. It is in this absolute control of detail that its approach to watchmakingbecomes clear. Rolex continues to develop its language through progressive interventions, fully integrated within a system that is never called into question. Each change is calibrated, each solution is designed to endure. And perhaps this is the Brand’s true signature: not to anticipate time, but to consistently set the standard.
By Elisa Copeta