Widely regarded as one of the most iconic dress watches ever created, the Patek Philippe Calatrava embodies the very essence of what a classic timepiece should be. Having defined an entire market segment since its debut in 1932, the Calatrava has become the cornerstone of Patek Philippe’s elegant offering, with a collection that has expanded over the decades to include a wide variety of models featuring different dials, materials, complications and more.
Presented here is a Calatrava Ref. 3893 dating from 1986. The 1980s marked one of the most significant periods for the collection in the modern era of watchmaking, when the Calatrava cemented its reputation as Patek Philippe’s quintessential dress watch. Defined by the renowned design language of the Geneva-based Maison and drawing strong inspiration from the iconic Ref. 96, this Ref. 3893 features a 33 mm 18-carat yellow gold case with extensive polished surfaces, a flat bezel, slender angular lugs and a beautiful ivory dial displaying large dauphine hands, applied faceted hour markers and a minimalist small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock.Making this example even rarer and more desirable is its so-called “double-signed” dial. In addition to the PATEK PHILIPPE GENEVE signature, the name of the renowned Swiss retailer BEYER of Zurich appears within the small seconds counter, which retailed the watch in 1989.
Inside the case beats the manual-winding Calibre 215 PS (where PS stands for petites secondes, French for “small seconds”), operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offering a power reserve of approximately 44 hours. A true example of minimalism, in keeping with the Bauhaus-inspired design philosophy that has long defined the collection, the Calatrava’s clean aesthetic has been the foundation of its success for decades, and the Ref. 3893 is no exception. The watch is offered with Patek Philippe and Beyer Extracts from the Archives, together with its original Watch Insanity accessories set.