Omega’s Seamaster Diver 300M collection is inextricably linked to James Bond. Over the years, numerous references have appeared on the wrist of literature and cinema’s most famous spy, from the quartz model worn in the 1995 film GoldenEye to the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light, released last May. Now the collection expands with six new references featuring not only James Bond, but also Spectre, the criminal organisation and arch-enemy of the British spy.
Omega has taken an interesting approach to the Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond and Spectre. The line-up comprises two individual watches – one dedicated to Bond and the other to Spectre – alongside two limited-editionsets, each containing two timepieces. One set celebrates 007, while the other is dedicated to the powerful organisation he battles in Her Majesty’s service. Let’s take a closer look at the Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond and Spectre models.
SEAMASTER DIVER 300M JAMES BOND
Let’s start with the two individual models in the permanent collection, beginning with the Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond. Its familiar 42 mm stainless steel case features the combination of polished and brushed surfaces characteristic of the collection. Another signature element of the Seamaster Diver 300M is the distinctive helium escape valve positioned at 10 o’clock.
The blue aluminium dial features the familiar laser-engraved wave pattern, alternating round and rectangular hour markers, and the collection’s signature high-visibility hands. Both the hands and hour markers are coated with Super-LumiNova. The bezel is particularly striking, crafted from grade 5 titanium with a grené finish and a luminous dot set into the triangle at 12 o’clock. Through the transparent caseback, the oscillating weight is visible, taking the form of the gun-barrel motif that has become synonymous with James Bond.
For this reference, Omega has opted for a brushed stainless steel Milanese mesh bracelet, a design that has become a staple of the collection since its introduction in titanium on the No Time To Die model.
SEAMASTER DIVER 300M SPECTRE
The Seamaster Diver 300M Spectre also features a 42 mm stainless steel case, but here black is the dominant colour. It defines the entire watch, beginning with the dial, whose striking grené finish creates a strong contrast with the hour markers. The black ceramic bezel continues the monochromatic aesthetic.
The hour markers and hands share the same design as those of the Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond, and neither reference features a date display. The same stainless steel Milanese mesh bracelet completes the watch.
Turn the watch over and another detail distinguishes the Seamaster Diver 300M Spectre from the 007 model. Here, the gun-barrel motif on the oscillating weight is replaced by Spectre’s emblem: a stylised black octopus.
THE OMEGA CO-AXIAL CALIBRE 8806
Both Seamaster Diver 300M models are powered by the Omega Co-Axial calibre 8806. It is one of Omega’s most established movements and is used across numerous references in the Seamaster Diver 300M collection, as well as in the Railmaster and Seamaster 300. The same calibre also powers the limited-edition watches included in the two sets.
The Omega Co-Axial calibre 8806 is a self-winding movement with a Co-Axial escapement, tested according to the Master Chronometer certification process approved by METAS, the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology. Resistant to magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss, it features a free-sprung balance with a silicon balance spring, a bidirectional rotor and Côtes de Genève finishing.
LIMITED EDITIONS
The limited-edition references are even more exclusive and retain the 42 mm case diameter. There are two sets, dedicated respectively to James Bond and Spectre. Each contains one stainless steel model with a Milanese mesh bracelet and one platinum-gold model with a leather strap. The watches are available exclusively as a pair and cannot be purchased separately. The steel versions feature a plaque on the case at 9 o’clock bearing the limited-edition number, with each set limited to 77 pieces.
As with the permanent-collection models, blue defines the 007-themed limited editions, while black characterises the Spectre versions. On the stainless steel watches, the dial and bezel match those of the corresponding permanent-collection models. On the platinum-gold versions, however, the bezel ring is crafted from polished ceramic – blue or black – with a platinum diving scale. The Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond features a white-gold dial with a blue gradient PVD finish and a gun-barrel motif, while the Seamaster Diver 300M Spectre has a dark grey dial with an octopus motif. The oscillating weights also differ from those of the permanent-collection watches: on both limited-edition models, the decorative elements are rendered in Moonshine Gold.
The presentation boxes contain more than just the two watches. Each set includes an additional NATO strap with a strap-changing tool, a pair of matching cufflinks, a cord bracelet, a watchmaker’s loupe inspired by the watch’s bezel and a leather travel case. The cufflinks and bracelet feature either Spectre or James Bond motifs. Further details distinguish the two sets: on the Spectre version, the buckle and strap loops feature the octopus emblem, while those in the James Bond set are engraved with the 007 initials. All the accessories follow the respective blue or black colour scheme.
OMEGA, THE SEAMASTER 300M AND JAMES BOND: AN INTERESTING FACT
Perhaps not everyone knows that it was Oscar-winning costume designer Lindy Hemming, who worked on five James Bond films from GoldenEye (1995) to Casino Royale (2006), who first suggested putting an Omega on 007’s wrist. Commenting on the choice of the Seamaster, she said: ‘I was convinced that Commander James Bond – a naval officer, a diver and a distinguished gentleman of the world – should wear this watch.’
Whether consciously or not, Hemming’s decision to associate the brand with the Royal Navy had a strong historical basis. Omega has a genuine connection with the UK Ministry of Defence (MoD), having supplied more than 110,000 watches to pilots, navigators and soldiers during the Second World War.
The Seamaster 300, first launched in 1957, was issued to military divers around the world. In 1967, a batch of second-generation Seamaster 300 watches was delivered to the Ministry of Defence for distribution to selected units. It is therefore historically plausible that Commander James Bond would wear an Omega.
PRICES AND CONCLUSIONS
As for pricing, the Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond is priced at € 8,500, as is the Seamaster Diver 300M Spectre. The two limited-edition gift sets are on sale for 89,300 euros. They are likely to appeal not only to James Bond enthusiasts but also to Omega collectors, who have long shown an interest in references inspired by the character created by Ian Fleming.
For Omega, the connection with James Bond has become a well-established part of its storytelling, alongside other defining narratives such as the Moonwatch and the lunar landing. The Bienne-based manufacture continues to build on this legacy, finding new ways to reinterpret its collections through fresh references and perspectives. It is one of the strengths of a brand with such a rich history: the ability not only to preserve its stories, but to translate them into compelling watches for a new generation of collectors.
By Davide Passoni