The French politician Jean Jaurès once said that “tradition does not consist in preserving ashes, but in keeping a flame alive”. Perhaps this is why there is no more fitting name for a collection than ‘Tradition’ for Breguet. For wearing a Tradition timepiece on one’s wrist means keeping alive the flame that inspired the most illustrious minds in watchmaking of all time; not only Abraham-Louis Breguet, but all his followers and those who, at the manufacture in the Vallée de Joux, continue the master’s unrivalled work.
In the following lines, we shall discuss Breguet’s most recent Tradition models, which range from the retrograde secondscomplication to the GMT complication. We shall briefly cover the new models, but not before recalling the history of the collection, the excellence of these complications and the modern interpretation that the Maison Breguet offers of them.
THE BREGUET TRADITION COLLECTION
The Tradition collection has recently celebrated its 20th anniversary. Launched by Breguet in 2005, it immediately captivated collectors with its ability to convey the legacy of the master Abraham-Louis in an immediate and compelling way. Each Tradition watch is, in fact, a synthesis of perfection – the design of a movement of the highest craftsmanship – and beauty – its aesthetic harmony.
In the Tradition collection, aesthetics and mechanics become a single, coherent whole, presented to the enthusiast’s eye through the dial. The structure of the movement, a model of symmetry and balance, forms the basis of the collection’s identity. Thanks to the inverted calibre, the watch’s components, normally concealed on the back, are turned outwards and become visible. In this way, the functional and aesthetic elements serve as an expression of Breguet’s genius.
The Tradition watches are in fact characterised primarily by the off-centre dial, positioned at the top, and by the full view of the gear trains and balance wheels. An aesthetic inspired by the famous touch watch that Abraham-Louis Breguet conceived from 1795 onwards and began marketing four years later. As early as the middle of last year, with the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035, Breguet restored this unique collection to its former glory. Now, the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde returns with three new models in four variations, accompanied by two variations of the Tradition GMT, watches that steer the collection in a more modern direction.
BREGUET TRADITION SECONDE RÉTROGRADE 7037
Let’s start with the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7037, a watch of understated, essential elegance. The 38 mm case is available in white gold or platinum. As the name suggests, it features a small retrograde seconds hand at 10 o’clock that moves smoothly for the entire duration of the 50-hour power reserve. The hour and minute hands are positioned on the off-centre dial at 12 o’clock, in white Grand Feu enamel for the white gold version and black for the platinum version. Black is the defining feature of this latter model: the movement and strap are black, whilst the white gold version features a blue strap.
The dial is largely open and free of complications. The components are arranged harmoniously and stand out against the blue of the movement, a first for Breguet. The mainplate is sandblasted, the bridges are satin-finished, and the decoration on the barrel cover features a snail-pattern guilloché, hand-finished like all the components.
A faithful revival of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s legacy can be seen in the use of Arabic numerals as hour markers, rather than Roman ones: the Master had already chosen them in 1799, with a design conceived over a decade earlier that became a hallmark of the brand, as well as being subsequently adopted by many other watchmakers.
The in-house 505 SR calibre, beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour and powering the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7037, is also a tribute to the Master, starting with the crescent-shaped oscillating weight. It is worth noting that this design establishes Breguet as the inventor of the automatic movement. The Breguet 1/8/82 watch (whose design predates 1780) is the very first documented self-winding watch, as it is housed in the Breguet Museum in Paris. Furthermore, the Master crafted the oscillating weight from platinum, a revolutionary material for the time, the production process for which had only recently been discovered. Breguet used it because he realised that its high density allowed for better winding performance in his automatic watch.
BREGUET TRADITION SECONDE RÉTROGRADE 7038
The Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7038 follows in the same vein, adding a touch of luxury to the collection. The case is slightly smaller, at 37 mm, still in white gold and rhodium-plated, but the extra touch comes from the bezel set with 58 brilliant-cut diamonds and the crown, adorned with a precious stone. In addition to this, there is a ‘first’ for Breguet: the off-centre dial is in black aventurine, enlivened by delicate silver-coloured powder transfers.
Otherwise, the design retains the classic Tradition aesthetic. The sandblasted bridges and mainplate feature a deep black finish, against which the retrograde seconds hand sweeps at 10 o’clock. Particularly striking is the barrel cover with a sunburst guilloché pattern, paying homage to this artisanal technique first introduced on watch dials by Abraham-Louis Breguet himself. The case with its ‘coin-edge’ finish and welded lugs echo the characteristics of the Tradition collection and, more broadly, of the Maison.
Like the 7037, the 7038 is powered by the calibre 505 SR, whose oscillating weight is, in this case, a masterpiece within a masterpiece. It sits atop the finely sandblasted mainplate and bridges, enhanced by a black finish that echoes that of the dial. It is decorated with a sunburst guilloché pattern and developed specifically for this model. An aesthetic that echoes that of the barrel cover, creating a “dialogue” between the two sides of the watch.
The case dimensions and precious finishes make this model a watch that appeals to a female audience. This appeal is reinforced by the black satin-finished fabric strap, fastened with an 18-carat rhodium-plated white gold pin buckle, itself embellished with 25 brilliant-cut diamonds. Alternatively, a black satin-effect alligator leather strap is available.
BREGUET TRADITION SECONDE RÉTROGRADE 7097
Rounding off the trio of retrograde watches is the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7097, a timepiece with a more striking presence than its predecessors. Starting with the 40 mm rose gold case, which houses the classic Tradition dial with a few touches that set this watch apart from the 7037 and 7038 models, beyond the case material.
The Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7097 introduces new finishes on the movement side, starting with the anthracite-grey barrel cover featuring circular graining. A finish that makes it stand out immediately beneath the off-centre Grand Feu white enamel dial, all contrasting with the gear train and the rose gold balance wheel. In this way, Breguet visually distinguishes each functional element of the Calibre 505 SR1, an automatic movement with a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour and a 50-hour power reserve, featuring the classic crescent-shaped oscillating weight, here in white gold. Concealed within the enamel dial is the Manufacture’s secret signature, applied in such a way as to be almost imperceptible, visible only to the wearer of the watch.
In the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7097, the hours and minutes are indicated by classic Breguet ‘à pomme évidée’ hands, with the retrograde seconds hand at 10 o’clock. Unlike the other two models discussed above, here it is superimposed on the enamel dial and features a satin-finished gold arc with a circular finish and fine sandblasting. This indicator draws the observer’s eye to the symmetrical position at 4 o’clock, where the “pare-chute” – Abraham-Louis Breguet’s invention designed to protect the balance staff from potential shocks – is clearly visible. The watch is completed by a grey calfskin strap, and a saddle-style rubber version with tone-on-tone stitching is also available.
BREGUET TRADITION GMT
Rounding off the new additions to the collection are two Tradition GMT models, essentially identical except for one detail. Firstly, what characterises the new Tradition GMT 7067 is the smoky green of the hour dial, in Grand Feu enamel. Achieving this colour using this technique is complex, as it requires perfect calibration of the choice of enamel powders, their shades, the chromatic balance and control of the firing process, from temperature to time in the kiln. All this contrasts with the silver Breguet Arabic numerals, which ensure the hours are perfectly legible.
The case measures 40 mm and is made of platinum. It frames the off-centre dial at 12 o’clock displaying the local time, whilst the subsidiary dial at 8 o’clock indicates the home time. A discreet day/night indicator is positioned at 10 o’clock next to the crown, which is used to adjust the GMT complication in one-hour increments in both directions. The home time dial distinguishes the two variants of the Tradition GMT 7067: it is available with Arabic numerals or with Arabic script.
This is a variant that is not widely found in watchmaking but is deeply rooted in the Maison’s history. From the early 19th century, Abraham-Louis Breguet offered his clients in the Ottoman Empire the option of dials featuring these characters. These watches, now known as “Ottoman watches”, were distinguished by their enamelled dials and easily recognisable numerals. Sometimes they featured double cases, enamelled and decorated with floral motifs and landscapes.
Powering the watch is the calibre 507 DRF, a hand-wound movement with a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour), bridges and mainplate coated in black PVD, a silicon Breguet balance spring and a power reserve of 50 hours. The strap is made of black rubber with green stitching and a platinum pin buckle.
CONCLUSIONS AND PRICES
The excellence of these watches from the Tradition collection lies not only in their superb finishes but also in the quality of their movements, combined with a five-year warranty on the timepieces. The prices are commensurate with the excellence of the creations in question. The Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7037 costs €53,800 (white gold) and €59,100 (platinum). The Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7038 costs €60,200, and the 7097 €51,400. Finally, the Tradition GMT 7067 is priced at €74,700.
For all these pieces, Breguet has adopted a distinctly historical approach that remains faithful to the founder’s horological vision: to constantly advance its art and design, embracing the spirit of the age whilst remaining at the cutting edge. Combining time-honoured expertise with contemporary techniques, these new models are fully in tune with the modern age, meeting the expectations of 21st-century collectors seeking watches that reflect their lifestyle and culture.
By Davide Passoni