When one thinks of the most elegant and versatile wristwatches ever created, yet also among the most underrated of the modern era, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5115J immediately comes to mind.
This reference was somewhat underestimated when it was launched in 2000 and continues not to be the first choice for many enthusiasts. However, a closer look at its features reveals a watch that deserves a place of honour in any collection. The dial alone is enough to understand why. Crafted in enamel, it reveals upon close inspection the charming imperfections that make each Ref. 5115J unique and give every example its own distinct personality. Compared to the dials produced using Patek Philippe’s modern enamel techniques, which are considerably smoother and more uniform thanks to the addition of extra polymers, those found on the early Ref. 5115J models possess a vintage character that places them among the most attractive enamel dials ever produced by the Manufacture. This appeal is further enhanced by the elegant Roman numeral hour markers and the small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock.
Many of the earliest examples feature the word “EMAIL” (French for enamel) printed below the 6 o’clock position, while later examples bear the inscription “CADRAN SWISS EMAIL”. The watch offered here belongs to the latter category and dates from 2001. It features a 35.5 mm yellow gold case with a screw-down case back and a Clous de Paris bezel distinguished by two rows of guilloché decoration. Powering the watch is the manual-winding Calibre 215 PS (where PS stands for petites secondes, French for “small seconds”), operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offering a power reserve of approximately 44 hours.
The watch is offered as a full set, complete with its original box, warranty and period-correct documentation. It is completed by a leather strap fitted with a yellow gold pin buckle.