Description
In 1997, Patek Philippe introduced the Ref. 5060A, regarded by many as the very first Aquanaut. It incorporated the signature elements that have remained defining features of the collection ever since: a stainless steel case, the distinctive checkerboard-patterned dial, and a rubber strap. These design choices marked a clear shift toward a sportier and more contemporary aesthetic than what Patek Philippe was traditionally known for.
From its debut, the Aquanaut has served as a kind of modern canvas for experimentation, allowing the brand to explore a more casual, adventurous side beyond its otherwise classic lineup. A year after the launch, Patek Philippe expanded the collection with three new references: the Ref. 5064, featuring a quartz movement; the Ref. 5065, the largest of the first-generation Aquanauts; and the Ref. 5066, distinguished by its exhibition caseback. The latter remained the truest to the original 1997 Aquanaut design, while adding the appeal of a transparent caseback. The watch presented here is a Ref. 5066 from 1999, featuring a 36 mm stainless steel case and a black dial. It is powered by the self-winding mechanical caliber 330 SC, offering hours, minutes, central seconds, and date functions. The movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides a power reserve of 45 hours. This is the same caliber Patek Philippe introduced in the Nautilus collection in 1992, replacing the 335 SC.
One of the most distinctive aspects of the Ref. 5066 is the ability to admire the movement through its sapphire crystal caseback. This model also features contrasting hour markers, hands, and date display for improved legibility. Notably, the hour markers are coated with tritium, which has developed a warm patina over time — a detail that collectors find particularly charming. Patek Philippe used tritium from around 1998 to 2004, before transitioning to Super-LumiNova in later models. This Aquanaut Ref. 5066 is offered as a full set.