MB&F: Special Project One

If there is a brand from which you never know what to expect, it is definitely MB&F… And so, after 20 years of “insane” watches, here comes the thinnest and most compact watch ever created by the brand, marking the beginning of a new “Special Project” collection.

The MB&F SP One, initially dubbed “Three Circles”, showcases a trinity of floating elements – the barrel, balance wheel, and dial – defying gravity on your wrist. These components appear to hover mysteriously at the centre of an amphitheatre, all visible through invisible sapphire domes, with the balance wheel performing a mid-air dance and the tilted DLC black dial highlighting MB&F’s clever conical gearing. 

NOTHING CLASSIC ABOUT A CLASSIC 

Like all MB&F projects, it started with a sketch – quickly or “badly” drawn, as Max likes to say – but the essence of the design and specificity of the project were already there. Three circles resembling a smiley face hinted at the playful yet intricate journey ahead. The concept stemmed from this idea of a trinity: the barrel, the balance wheel, and the dial suspended in the case itself levitating on the wrist. 

Yet, these early sketches were all about crafting a watch that whispered sophistication instead of shouting for attention. It needed to be subtly elegant, with a classic flair that set it apart from the usual MB&F boldness while keeping the brand’s roots alive. In other words, a hard-to-reach equilibrium. 

This initial sketch was then refined and reworked with the help of famous watch designer and longtime MB&F Friend Eric Giroud. After numerous iterations, the concept seemed just right: it was then time for the engineers to take over, sketching and mapping the entire project with precision, care and plenty of head-scratching. 

LEVITATING IN A CIRCLE 

Initially code-named “Three Circles,” the SP One Manual winding movement “72h hours of power reserve” is crafted around the three key elements of any mechanical watch: the barrel, the balance wheel, and the dial. Each component isn’t just there for show; they’re meant to feel like they’re floating in mid-air. 

Thanks to the sapphire glass on both the front and back, these elements appear to defy gravity. However, it’s the thoughtful architecture of the movement that truly enhances this captivating levitation effect, creating a striking visual experience. Embracing the “less is more” mantra, the bridges are almost like magic, practically invisible. Most components are cleverly hidden beneath the three key elements, letting their beauty take centre stage. The fewer bridges, screws, and wheels, the better! In fact, trying to spot a screw from the front is like searching for a needle in a hay- stack, amplifying that stunning levitating effect. 

Visually, the three elements have identical circumferences, adding complexity to the movement’s design. The single-barrel architecture is suspended, enhancing the levitation effect and presenting a genuine challenge for the movement designers. The balance wheel oscillates at 2 o’clock and captivates the wearer eyes like a flying saucer. 

In Max’s imaginative world, everything seems to float, and the dial perfectly follows suit! Tilted just right to highlight MB&F’s expertise in conical gearing, this feature is a tricky feat to pull off while keeping it reliable. This technically complex to achieve architecture reveals a simple and unique structure that makes understanding how a mechanical watch functions surprisingly straightforward.
Surrounding this movement is what Max playfully dubs the “amphitheatre”: a bevelled flange that channels the grandeur of Greco-Roman theatres, spotlighting the stunning intricacies of the movement like a gladiator in the arena. 

Flip the SP One over, and you’ll uncover the other side of its arena, showcasing the meticulous hand finishing and overall attention to detail typical of MB&F – one of the rare watchmakers today perpetuating traditional hand finishing and artisanal craftsmanship. 

The MB&F touch is unmistakably present in the SP One. Beyond the desire to surprise and take risks, it’s the meticulous attention to the movement that reveals the family ties. The complexity lies in maintaining finesse and elegance while preserving classic codes. All wheels are hand-angled, with prominent chatons, and the finish balance is subtle between satin, polished, and micro- blasted surfaces. 

A SATISFYING PEBBLE 

Beyond the unconventional construction of the movement and traditional hand-finishing, the pebble case design further sets the SP One apart. Despite being thin, this watch paradoxically boasts a three-dimensional presence. Imagine holding a perfectly-smooth pebble, polished by years in a riverbed: that’s the feel of the SP One. Its 38mm case, sleek like a spaceship and bezel-free, features sapphire glass that seamlessly blends front and back with the case. This design gives the watch a captivating floating effect also emphasized by its cleverly crafted lugs. A closer look reveals that they’re not directly attached to the upper case; instead, they rise elegantly from the lower case, creating a subtle yet distinct gap between each hand-polished lug and the upper section.

SP One launches in two editions: platinum with a sky-blue bevelled flange (CHF 63,000 + TAX) and rose gold with an anthracite bevelled flange (CHF 58,000 + TAX).