VO Vintage: from Rolex to Omega, four gems chosen for you

Once again this year, the community of rare watch enthusiasts has gathered at the Vicenza Exhibition Centre. This I where, from 5 to 9 September as part of Vicenzaoro September – a key B2B event for professionals in the jewellery and watchmaking sectors – VO Vintage was held, dedicated to connoisseurs and lovers of fine timepieces, and open to the public. With the September edition debut, VO Vintage doubled its now classic January event and magnified its success. 

In addition to dozens of exceptional watches presented at the fair – among them, true rarities – VO Vintage was also enlivened by events and talks by leading experts in the field of jewellery and watchmaking, boosting the appeal of the event. Italian Exhibition Group, the organiser of Vicenzaoro, aims to grow this format with a targeted strategy.

VO VINTAGE: THE NUMBERS AND RARITIES

The figures for Vicenzaoro September demonstrate the growth of the event: +3% buyers compared to the September 2024 edition; visitors coming from 130 different countries with the attendance from Australia doubling in one year; growing markets such as China, Hong Kong, Japan and Brazil; attendance from 15 new countries, including Bolivia, Madagascar, Macao, Mozambique, Nicaragua and the Dominican Republic; over 1,200 exhibitors (60% Italian) from 30 countries; 605 buyers from 63 countries.

Of course, we were also present at VO Vintage, and while visiting the various stands, we came across many remarkable pieces, some of which are literally impossible to find. We wanted to share with you some of the beauties we tried on our wrists, but it was not easy to choose among such amazing references. So here are four gems that, in our humble opinion, made the trip to Vicenza worthwhile. Didn’t make it there? No problem, we’ll bring the watches to you.

ROLEX DATE JUST REF. 1601 (1977)

Presented by Antonio Nocco from Parma, this watch stands out for the elegant contrast between the rose gold Jubilee case and bracelet, and the chalcedony dial. The 1601 reference represents the archetypal Datejust design. With its fluted bezel, pie-pan dial and Jubilee bracelet, the watch embodies balance, versatility and timeless elegance. Unlike other more sophisticated models, the 1601 proves that simplicity and classic proportions are always highly appreciated. Collectors and enthusiasts continue to favour it for its understated refinement, confirming that heritage and clarity of design can often outweigh novelty or complexity when evaluating what makes a Datejust timeless. 

Although it is still one of the models for which Rolex has predominantly chosen a sober line, there are nevertheless some examples of precious variants – such as the one brought to VO Vintage – characterised by an unusual red chalcedony dial. Chalcedony is simply the generic name given to quartz when it appears in compact masses of microcrystalline silica. It can be of different colours – including red, also known as carnelian. On the Rolex Datejust, despite being a watch that is almost 50 years old, we found the uniformity of the dial is still spectacular and stands out incredibly thanks to the rose gold of the case, bezel and bracelet. The date disc, also rose gold in colour, is a treat for the eyes and for… the ego of the wearer.

AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK REF. 14790ST (2004)

It cannot be said that this 1470ST presented by Perusia Watches in Perugia does not immediately capture the eye and attention. The model we saw in Vicenza dates back a dozen years after the birth of the 1470ST, launched in 1992. It belongs to the third series of this reference (2000-2005) and is the one in which we see the most obvious change compared to the previous ones, concerning the dial, which takes on a decidedly more modern look. So much so that Audemars Piguet also introduces a series of more colourful dials, from Ferrari red to bright yellow, featured on a small series of models. Among them is the watch featured here, with a 36 mm case and steel bracelet. 

The dial configuration is what clearly identifies this as the third series. The long hour markers have been replaced by shorter ones, with the tapisserie pattern enlarged proportionally. The Audemars Piguet signature is placed inside a smaller cartouche, rather than being printed directly on the tapisserie pattern as in previous models. Some models also feature a small window around the date display. The hands are the same as those seen on most of the second series, although the luminescent coating now has a decidedly greener appearance. Despite being produced for a shorter period of time, this dial configuration appears much more commonly than that found in the second series. This reference with a yellow dial, which we have seen first-hand, is offered by Perusia Watches as a full set.

PATEK PHILIPPE “TASTI TONDI” REF. 1463 (1952)

Among the stands at VO Vintage were also some true icons, such as the unmistakable 35 mm ‘Tasti Tondi’ by Patek Philippe, presented by Roman dealer Andrea Foffi. The 1463 reference is part of Patek Philippe’s tradition of hand-wound chronographs, which, at the beginning of the 20th century, were developed into two references: the 130 and the 530. Both were produced in relatively limited numbers and became the benchmark models for manual chronographs. In 1940, the manufacturer updated its chronograph with the launch of the 1463. Like the 130 and 530, it was a dual-counter chronograph with a sporty complication enclosed in an elegant case. Unlike its predecessors, the 1463 was waterproof. 

Since the chronograph is an inherently sporty complication, the development of a waterproof configuration was the natural next step in the model’s evolution. Approximately 750 examples of the 1463 were produced, mostly in yellow gold like the model seen in Vicenza, with very few in rose gold and even fewer in steel. In addition to the screw-down case back and crown, the most significant challenge for the water resistance of the 1463 was posed by the pushers. For the first time, Patek Philippe used pump pushers with unique engravings at the ends. This rounded shape was perfect for maintaining the watch’s elegance while achieving the water resistance goals. For this reason, the watch was nicknamed ‘Tasti Tondi’ (round buttons) – which then became its common name – by Italian collectors. The chronograph worn by Andrea Foffi has hour and minute hands covered with radium and features a ‘double signed’ dial, highly sought after by collectors. In addition to the Patek Philippe inscription, it also bears the name of Beyer, a historic retailer in Zurich.

OMEGA CHRONOSTOP “BULLHEAD” REF. 146.011-69 (1969)

Those who were hunting for wow pieces at VO Vintage probably came across this Seamaster Chronostop ‘Bullhead’ like we did, a true symbol of 1970s watchmaking presented by the Steel Time retailer in Varese. What is commonly known as the ‘Bullhead’ is actually the Seamaster Driver Chronograph, ref. 146.011. When Omega created it in 1969, they sought to produce an asymmetrical chronograph designed for motor racing. Omega believed that it made more sense and was more ergonomically correct to position the chronograph pushers at 11 o’clock and 1 o’clock on the upper part of the 43 mm case, similar to a stopwatch, and to tilt the dial towards the wearer. 

The narrower base of the case and the wider, thicker top, together with the horn-like pushers, resembled a bull’s head and earned it its nickname. The crown, located on the central upper part of the case, operated the hand-wound calibre 930, rotated 90 degrees counter-clockwise to achieve the bull’s head look. The other crown at 6 o’clock rotated the inner bezel. The coloured dial is a hallmark of Omega chronographs from the 1960s and 1970s. In this case, it is light brown and features a chequered ring inside the rotating bezel. At 12 o’clock, the chronograph minute counter is divided into blue, red and black segments, while the seconds counter at 6 o’clock features traditional indices. Typical of vintage Omega chronographs: the chronograph’s bright orange seconds hand, making time easy to read.