Throughout the history of the Rolex Submariner, some references have remained in production for generations, while others were produced for much shorter periods. The Ref. 168000, known among collectors as the “Triple Zero”, belongs to the latter category and represents one of the most interesting transitional models in the history of Rolex’s iconic diver.
Produced for a brief period in the late 1980s, it evolved from the Ref. 16800 and preceded the Ref. 16610. Aesthetically very similar to its predecessor, the 168000 features a 40 mm stainless steel Oyster case, a black dial with applied hour markers, a date display at 3 o’clock with Cyclops lens, and a unidirectional rotating bezel with a graduated black insert. Water-resistant to 300 metres, it is paired with the signature stainless steel Oyster bracelet. Inside is the self-winding Rolex calibre 3035, the same movement used in the Ref. 16800, featuring central seconds, a quick-set date and a power reserve of approximately 48 hours.
The example offered here dates from circa 1988 and stands out for the distinctive ageing of its dial and luminescent material. Originally glossy, the dial has gradually lost some of its shine, developing a fascinating almost matte appearance and a colour that shifts between black and grey. Meanwhile, the hour markers have developed a warm and even cream patina, creating a particularly striking contrast. Together, these natural transformations give the watch a unique character and offer a visual expression of the passage of time.
The watch no longer retains its original box and guarantee and is accompanied by the Watch Insanity set, created to complete its presentation and provide a fitting way to preserve it over time.