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Rolex Submariner Ref.16618 “Serti Dial”

This 1989 Rolex Submariner Ref. 16618 features a 40 mm case and Oyster bracelet, both crafted in yellow gold — a hallmark of this reference. What makes this watch particularly special is its so-called “Serti” dial, also known as the “Sultan” dial. Unlike other variants of the Ref. 16618, this version is adorned with hour markers made of diamonds and sapphires, meticulously set in-house by Rolex. Specifically, the baton markers at 6 and 9 o’clock and the triangular marker at 12 o’clock are sapphires, while the remaining eight markers are diamonds. This Ref. 16618 is powered by the COSC-certified automatic caliber 3135, a 31-jewel movement beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offering a 48-hour power reserve. The example presented here is in excellent condition and comes as a full set.

SPECIFICATIONS

Band: Rolex

Model: Submariner Ref.16618

Year: 1989

Case: 40mm

Material: Yellow Gold

Dial: Champagne

Functions: Hours, Minutes and Date

Movement: Cal. 3135 Automatic

Bracelet/Strap: Integrated gold bracelet

Accessories: Box and Papers Original

Warranty: 24 Months

Description

The Ref. 16618 is highly coveted among Rolex Submariner enthusiasts, as it represents the yellow gold interpretation of one of the most iconic watches of both past and present. After debuting the Submariner in the 1950s, Rolex introduced the Ref. 16618 in the late 1980s. While not the first gold version in the collection dedicated to the depths, it quickly became sought after by collectors thanks to its appealing price point and its classic case-and-bracelet design.

Produced until 2010, the Ref. 16618 embodies all the signature traits of Rolex’s legendary diver: a 40 mm Oyster case water-resistant to 30 bar, screw-down crown, unidirectional 60-minute graduated bezel, date window magnified by the Cyclops lens, and the robust Oyster bracelet — all elevated by the luxurious use of yellow gold, making the Ref. 16618 the most opulent version of the Submariner. Over the years, Rolex produced this reference in various bezel and dial configurations. Particularly noteworthy is the version presented here, dating back to 1989, which stands out for its distinctive “Serti dial,” also known as the “Sultan dial.” The dial is adorned with hour markers set with diamonds and sapphires, carefully mounted in-house by Rolex. Specifically, the baton markers at 6 and 9 o’clock and the triangular one at 12 o’clock are crafted from sapphires, while the remaining eight markers are set with diamonds.

This Ref. 16618 is powered by the automatic caliber 3135, recently succeeded by the updated caliber 3235. The movement is a Superlative Chronometer, meaning it has passed both the stringent COSC certification and Rolex’s own in-house testing. Beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, the 31-jewel caliber offers a power reserve of 48 hours. The watch offered here is in excellent condition and comes as a full set.