Chronomètre Souverain: 20 years of excellence by F.P.Journe

2025 will long be remembered in watchmaking as the year of anniversaries. Between manufacturers, collections, and individual models, from last January to today there has been a succession of milestones that we have consistently highlighted on our pages. Among them, we could not overlook the anniversary of one of the watches we admire most, created by one of the brands we hold in the highest regard: the Chronomètre Souverain by François-Paul Journe, which is celebrating its 20th anniversary. Two decades of mechanical excellence that have redefined the concept of chronometry through a series of references that are equally coveted by enthusiasts and collectors.

AESTHETICS AND MECHANICS OF THE CHRONOMÈTRE SOUVERAIN

We have written about the Chronomètre Souverain on several occasions in the past, as you can read in this article and in this other article. To define the Chronomètre Souverain, introduced to the collection in 2005, we borrow the same words we used about a year ago: a “simple” hand-wound watch with a power-reserve indicator on the dial. “Simple,” of course, by the standards we have come to expect from François-Paul Journe. In reality, beneath its linearity and purity of form lies a level of mechanical savoir-faire inspired by marine chronometers. This technical heritage has its roots in the 18th century, when Great Britain and France were competing for supremacy at sea. That supremacy depended on the precision of the mechanical instruments carried aboard ships, which were essential for setting a correct course and determining position on the open ocean.

This pursuit of chronometric precision has fascinated François-Paul Journe since his apprenticeship in Paris and finds its most explicit expression in the Chronomètre Souverain through the inverted power-reserve indicator. Historically, marine chronometers were wound once a day at a fixed time—most often at noon—to maintain the most stable possible rate: the hand points to zero when the springs are fully wound and advances as they unwind. A technical and historical refinement that introduces yet another mechanical challenge.

Placing the power-reserve indicator at 3 o’clock would interfere with the time-setting mechanism. Such interference would have required an excessively thick calibre; to avoid this, François-Paul Journe devised an ingenious integration that reduced the mechanism to a thickness of just 0.5 mm by using ceramic ball bearings. This patented innovation, now employed across all F.P. Journe calibres, allows the Chronomètre Souverain to maintain a total case thickness of just 8 mm.

The hand-wound Calibre 1304 powering the collection is only 4 mm thick and is built around two barrels working in parallel. In this watch, the twin-barrel architecture serves less to extend the power reserve—approximately 56 hours—than to improve the stability of the torque delivered to the regulating organ. Viewed through the sapphire case back, the balance wheel and escapement appear detached, almost as if they were marking time without any visible source of energy. Part of the gear train is positioned beneath the dial, with only the central wheel exposed, making the balance appear even more isolated—nearly suspended in a vacuum.

DIALS WITH OR WITHOUT GUILLOCHÉ

Over its 20-year history, the Chronomètre Souverain has been produced in numerous variations, always defined by a 40 mm case in either 18K 6N red gold or platinum and the manually wound Calibre 1304 (it was previously also available in a 38 mm version). To mark this anniversary, the Geneva-based manufacture has introduced a version featuring a blue dial with applied hour markers in 18K 5N gold or white gold, depending on the case material. These watches are offered with either an alligator strap or a five-row bracelet in 18K 6N red gold or platinum and are available exclusively through F.P.Journe boutiques and Espaces F.P.Journe. In both case versions, the central portion of the silver dial is decorated with guilloché engraving.

This detail is far from superfluous. Looking at both the Chronomètre Souverain models currently in the collection and those produced as special editions, we can identify four references that may be described as “classic,” available with either a guilloché dial or a smooth one. Here again, the pairing is consistent: 18K 6N red gold and platinum. In the smooth-dial references, the hour markers are applied, while in the guilloché versions they are printed.

Another particularly elegant reference is the Chronomètre Souverain with the so-called Havana dial, rendered in a warm tobacco-brown shade that required months of development to perfect. Achieving this tone depends on a galvanic bath based on a precise blend of gold and ruthenium. This version, too, is available with either a strap or a bracelet, as detailed here.

SPECIAL EDITIONS: CHRONOMÈTRE SOUVERAIN BLACK LABEL AND NACRE

Given the central role of the Chronomètre Souverain—not only within the brand’s collections but also in François-Paul Journe’s broader vision of fine mechanical watchmaking—the manufacture has dedicated several special editions to this line, each defined by colours, finishes, and materials developed specifically for them. Among these exclusive interpretations, the Chronomètre Souverain Black Label is an undeniable cornerstone.

Available exclusively through the brand’s network of boutiques and Espaces, Black Label watches share two defining characteristics: a platinum case and a dial coated in deep, ink-black lacquer. These watches are reserved for collectors who already own an F.P. Journe. In the case of the Chronomètre Souverain, exclusivity is further reinforced by the dial configuration, featuring applied hour markers in 18K white gold.

The two Chronomètre Souverain Nacre versions are particularly sought after. As the French term suggests, they feature mother-of-pearl on the dial. Offered in either platinum or 18K 6N red gold, they are distinguished by a guilloché-worked centre and an extremely thin mother-of-pearl ring used for the minute track and the F.P. Journe Invenit et Fecit signature at 12 o’clock. The use of mother-of-pearl demanded an exceptionally high level of craftsmanship: despite its apparent simplicity, the Chronomètre Souverain’s silver dial is highly complex to manufacture. This complexity is further heightened here by the combination of two different materials—one of them particularly fragile—the presence of guilloché, and the pad-printing of the hour markers onto the mother-of-pearl surface.

THE GREEN OF THE CHRONOMÈTRE SOUVERAIN CSD

The most recent version of the Chronomètre Souverain that we have yet to see is truly exceptional, not least because it remains the only limited-edition reference: just 99 pieces. Produced in 2020 and known as the CSD (Chronomètre Souverain Dubai), this model features a platinum case, applied hour markers in 18K white gold, and a captivating green dial. It was created to celebrate the opening of F.P. Journe’s first boutique in Dubai on 30 October 2019, located inside the prestigious Dubai Mall, in partnership with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. This marked the brand’s tenth boutique, following those in Tokyo, Hong Kong, Geneva, Paris, New York, Miami, Los Angeles, Beirut, and Kiev.

Such an occasion called for a dedicated timepiece, and François-Paul Journe personally selected the colour green, a symbol of luck, providence, and fertility in Middle Eastern culture. Beyond its colour and limited production, the Chronomètre Souverain CSD features another distinctive trait: the absence of a power-reserve indicator on the dial. Like the Black Label editions, this model was available exclusively through the brand’s boutiques.

Twenty years after its creation, the Chronomètre Souverain and its perfectly balanced architecture remain true to François-Paul Journe’s original vision, uniting chronometric precision, elegance, and innovation. With its traditional yet unexpected appearance, the collection has established itself as a benchmark within F.P. Journe’s universe. As stated at the outset, the Chronomètre Souverain remains the dream of collectors and enthusiasts alike. Owning one today is a privilege reserved for those who know how to savour time—and who fully understand the value of doing so.

By Davide Passoni