Limited to eight pieces, the TYPE 9 IKE brings together Ressence’s unconventional approach to time display and the artistic discipline of Japanese lacquer master Terumasa Ikeda. Rather than a simple artistic collaboration, this edition represents a carefully balanced encounter between contemporary mechanical design and a centuries-old decorative tradition.

A DIALOGUE BETWEEN MINIMALISM AND CRAFT

Few watches articulate Ressence’s philosophy as clearly as the TYPE 9. Time is displayed through the ROCS 9, the Ressence Orbital Convex System, a proprietary module built upon a customised automatic base calibre. Traditional hands are entirely absent. In their place, rotating satellite discs sweep across a single convex plane, creating a display that is fluid, intuitive and continuously evolving. There is no crown; winding and setting are performed directly via the caseback, reinforcing the brand’s integrated and ergonomically driven design language. This pared-back architecture provides the ideal foundation for Ikeda’s intervention.

The Grade 5 titanium dial surface, finished with a deep black DLC coating, serves as the structural base for successive layers of black urushi lacquer and raden inlay. Urushi, the traditional Japanese lacquer derived from the sap of the lacquer tree, Toxicodendron vernicifluum, is applied in multiple ultra-thin coats and cured in humidity-controlled environments. The process yields a surface of remarkable visual depth, resilience and natural lustre.

Against this dense black ground, fragments of mother of pearl introduce flashes of electric blue, emerald green and violet. The contrast is both controlled and assertive. Light refracts across the nacre rather than merely reflecting from it, revealing shifting chromatic nuances as the viewing angle changes. The dial’s convex geometry intensifies this effect, amplifying the perception of depth created by the layered construction.

Decoration is not superimposed onto the mechanism. Ultra-thin mother of pearl inlays are mounted directly onto the moving elements of the orbital display, making the artistic composition inseparable from the watch’s kinematic architecture. As the discs rotate, the interplay of light evolves continuously, transforming the dial into a living, dynamic surface rather than a static ornamental field.

TERUMASA IKEDA: TRADITION REINTERPRETED

Based in Kanazawa, Terumasa Ikeda is recognised for translating traditional Japanese lacquer work into a distinctly contemporary visual language. His practice is grounded in urushi, the time-honoured lacquer technique that defines much of Japan’s decorative heritage, yet it is articulated through a rigorously modern sensibility.

Urushi forms the structural and aesthetic foundation of his work. Applied in successive layers and carefully cured before being polished to reveal depth and luminosity, it provides the surface into which raden is introduced. Raden, the intricate technique of embedding ultra-thin fragments of mother of pearl into fresh lacquer, creates luminous accents that emerge only after meticulous finishing. Traditional materials such as hinoki wood, nacre and gold leaf coexist with digital tools used for compositional development and precision laser cutting of abalone, although final placement and finishing remain entirely manual.

For the TYPE 9 IKE, Ikeda approached the orbital display as a miniature planetary system. The layered construction draws inspiration from heliocentrism and from the pursuit of empirical truth through observation. Lines and luminous shards appear to orbit across the dial in a carefully structured yet atmospheric composition, suggesting motion even before the mechanism begins to rotate.

Applying raden over layers of urushi on a convex, continuously moving surface presented a considerable technical challenge. Naturally flat and inherently fragile, the mother of pearl had to be gradually softened and shaped to follow the dial’s curvature while maintaining exact alignment with the rotating discs. The margin for error was minimal, as even the slightest deviation would become immediately apparent once the display was set in motion.

THE ROCS 9 AND ORBITAL KINEMATICS

From a technical standpoint, the TYPE 9 IKE preserves the full architecture of the standard TYPE 9 platform. The ROCS 9 module consists of 20 gears and 4 ball bearings and is mounted atop a customised automatic base calibre. It is driven directly by the minute axle, transmitting energy to the co-planar satellite discs arranged on a single convex surface. The absence of hands is not aesthetic but structural, integral to the system’s identity.

The display operates according to the principles of orbital kinematics. The hour disc rotates on its own axis while simultaneously orbiting with the minute indication, producing a seamless and continuously readable indication of time. The motion is mechanical yet organic, precise yet visually fluid. The self-contained module incorporates 31 jewels and contributes to a total of 182 components within the watch. The automatic movement runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and delivers a 36-hour power reserve. Winding and time setting are performed by rotating the caseback through a 12 degree arc, fully consistent with Ressence’s crownless philosophy and its pursuit of ergonomic integration.

ARCHITECTURE AND SPECIFICATIONS

The case is crafted from Grade 5 titanium with a black DLC coating and measures 39 mm in diameter and 11 mm in thickness. A domed sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective treatment preserves clarity across the curved display. Water resistance is rated at 1 ATM. The watch weighs 43 grams including the strap, a figure that reflects both the lightweight titanium construction and the ergonomic intent underpinning the TYPE 9 concept.

A glossy black horse leather strap, tapering from 20 to 18 mm and lined with moisture-resistant leather, is secured by a titanium ardillon buckle.

AVAILABILITY AND CONCLUSION

The TYPE 9 IKE is produced in a strictly limited edition of eight pieces and will be available from 26 February 2026 through selected international retailers. The retail price is CHF 32,000, approximately €. 35,040, excluding taxes.

With this edition, Ressence further affirms its position within contemporary independent watchmaking. By integrating a centuries-old decorative discipline into a radically modern display architecture, the TYPE 9 IKE achieves a rare equilibrium between conceptual design, mechanical innovation and artisanal craft. The essential purity of the TYPE 9 remains intact, yet it is expanded by a material and visual intensity that lends this edition a distinctive and unmistakably contemporary presence.

By Elisa Copeta