In the segment of pilot’s watches, Breguet’s Type XX line is among the most recognisable. Its history begins in the early 1950s, when the French Air Force issued a tender for chronographs intended for its pilots. These watches, designated as Type 20, were required to meet a set of technical specifications typical of aviation timepieces: a black dial with luminous hands and markers, a movement capable of withstanding sudden pressure changes and accelerations, a rotating bezel, and a flyback function. Several manufactures took part in the competition, and many watches were produced under the Type 20 designation, not only by Breguet. As the selected brands were also allowed to sell the same watch to civilian clients, the model was renamed Type XX.
From this background comes the Breguet Type XX presented here, reference 3800, known as the “Aeronavale”. It stands out for the proportions of its stainless steel case, measuring 39.5 mm — a compact size for a pilot’s watch that does not compromise the dial aperture or, consequently, legibility, one of the key requirements for this category. The Aeronavale features no date display and presents a layout with running seconds at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, and a 60-minute counter at 9 o’clock. The central chronograph hand has a “lollipop” tip, while the hour and minute hands follow the collection’s signature sword shape. Both hands and Arabic numerals are coated with tritium. The coin-edge caseband reflects Breguet’s traditional design language, paired with a polished steel bezel and an oversized gold crown.
This Breguet Type XX is powered by the calibre 582, a flyback chronograph movement with a column wheel, beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offering a 48-hour power reserve. It is fitted with a black leather strap and is presented as a full set.