Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary Titanium Ceramic: the legacy of a legend

To make history, you don’t always need to have a long history behind you. It may sounds paradoxical as it is written, but when you think of Hublot’s Big Bang, that’s exactly how things are. A chronograph turning 20 years old in 2025 was able to so profoundly mark watchmaking trends and steal the hearts of collectors and enthusiasts that it became part of history in just two decades. In a 2025 full of anniversaries for many watchmaking brands, Hublot could not miss the opportunity to celebrate the birthday of one of its ‘champions’. 

They did so at Watches and Wonders by presenting not one but an impressive five chronographs, reinterpreting some of the most significant milestones in the collection’s history. And they did so in their own way, applying their own pay-off ‘The Art of Fusion’ to these watches that they have identified as Big Bang 20th Anniversary. These are in fact five limited edition models that blend the design of the original Big Bang with that of the current Big Bang Unico. A quintet sporting the aesthetics and spirit of the original Big Bang, but mixed with materials and movements that are the state of the art of the research that Hublot has been pursuing not only since 2005, but since its very beginnings. Because that is where you have to get to fully understand both the spirit of the collection and today’s watches.

BIG BANG AND JEAN-CLAUDE BIVER’S INTUITION

While Hublot was born in 1980, the spark that led to the creation of the Big Bang struck several years later. Jean-Claude Biver had just taken on the role of CEO of the brand, in 2004, and he immediately recognized Hublot’s potential: a combination of materials rarely used together, such as gold and rubber, an uncompromising design and a unique style, completely different from what contemporary watchmaking offered at the time. Thus, within a few months, the Big Bang chronograph was presented at Baselworld 2005.

Although the term ‘Big Bang’ may immediately bring space to mind, the name actually refers more precisely to the original explosion from which Hublot’s new course began. The Big Bang was revolutionary and unobtrusive. It had the familiar bezel of the brand’s early MDM models, a rubber strap and a complex, angular case. The watch was a mix of different materials and different finishes.

Moreover, it was positioned in a premium segment, directly challenging the more classic and established chronographs. It had an ETA movement, a choice that was much criticised despite the fact that all brands, including the most prestigious, have sooner or later used supplied chronograph movements for their watches. All this showed that Hublot’s new chronograph represented an innovation, if not even a threat.

INFLUENCER ANTE LITTERAM

The new Big Bang chronograph was a phenomenal success that took Hublot to another level. Moreover, it brought with it a disruptive new form of marketing, which came as a surprise to a watchmaking industry accustomed to thinking mainly in terms of technical standards. In this sense, Biver deserves great credit, as he was able to perceive the change that was taking place in the market in those years and to propose a targeted and appropriate response.

Over the years, Hublot has pursued its own marketing strategy, always positioning itself where one would have least expected it to be, in spite of sceptics and critics. The brand has succeeded, probably also and above all thanks to the Big Bang, which has progressively become its flagship watch. 

Over time, it has become one of watchmaking’s most influential chronographs, becoming known for its sharp, decisive lines, its cases and bezels made of contemporary materials, its high-tech look and its reliability. A blend that still today strikes at the foundations of contemporary watchmaking, just as it did 20 years ago, when the Big Bang arrived unexpectedly, was not immediately understood and, perhaps, not even very welcome. Time has proved Hublot right and the five anniversary models are a testament to that.

BIG BANG 20TH ANNIVERSARY TITANIUM CERAMIC 

All Big Bang 20th Anniversary watches are the same case size – 43 mm in diameter, 13.20 mm thick –, share the same movement – calibre MHUB1280.20YEARS – and the same moulded satin-finished carbon-fibre dial structure. What does change is the case material. In this case, we focus on the version that most closely resembles the original Big Bang, namely that with the titanium and ceramic case. 

The aesthetic is the classic one, where the polished and satin-finished titanium of the case contrasts energetically with the black ceramic inserts on the case middle and, above all, with the imposing bezel. It, too, is made of ceramic and is characterised by its side decorated with a structured, net-like motif that attempts to visually lighten its presence. The classic six H-shaped titanium screws firmly secure it to the case. 

The dial, as mentioned, presents a deep black, carbon-fibre pattern and contrasts with the white indices, which are covered with luminescent material. The batons of the odd-numbered indexes are alternated with the Arabic numerals of the even-numbered ones. Accentuating the depth provided by the carbon fibre motif are the two counters, the hour at 3 o’clock and the continuous seconds at 9 o’clock. In addition to the chamfering, their circular finish, contrasting with the carbon finish of the dial, helps to create a dynamic visual effect overall. Somewhat sacrificed by this structure is the date window, at 4:30, partly because Hublot has chosen a black date disc: while positively not breaking up the aesthetic homogeneity of the dial, it does risk making the date window anonymous.

Pushing the watch’s aesthetics even further are a few measured touches of red: the chronograph seconds hand, with a counterweight in the shape of the Hublot logo, the minute track of the hour counter and the peripheral dial.

HUBLOT’S SIGNATURE DNA

For the Big Bang 20th Anniversary movement, Hublot has chosen to play it safe with the tried and tested MHUB1280 calibre, which the brand has renamed MHUB1280.20YEARS. The homage to the collection’s 20th anniversary is essentially expressed in the personalisation of the oscillating weight with the inscription 20 YEARS. This oscillating weight is in King Gold and, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, contrasts with the anthracite-coloured rhodium plating of the bridges and the mainplate.

Calibre MHUB1280.20YEARS is an automatic, manufacture UNICO chronograph movement with flyback function and column wheel. It works at 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of approximately 72 hours. It is one of the most reliable chronograph calibres, not only from Hublot but in the industry in general. No wonder then that the brand has made it the highlight of this entire, new Big Bang collection.

The case lugs are equipped with Hublot‘s proprietary One Click system, which allows for quick release and replacement of the strap. In this case, it is Hublot’s classic structured strap, which has a black ceramic and titanium buckle, like the case. This watch is in a limited edition of 500 pieces, at a price of 21,600 euros.

As written above, what differentiates the five Big Bang 20th Anniversary models is the material of the case. In addition to this, let’s also state the number of pieces in the limited editions. In addition to the titanium and ceramic reference, there are those in King Gold and ceramic (250 pieces, 39,900 euros), Red ceramic (100 pieces, 33,000 euros), All Black ceramic (500 pieces, 26,200 euros) and Magic Gold (100 pieces, 42,200 euros).

As you can see, with this range of chronographs, Hublot has chosen to keep the collection in the premium segment, not only in terms of price but also of exclusivity and materials. A strategy in keeping with the spirit of a line that continues to delight and inspire twenty years after its birth. If the Big Bang that gave rise to Swiss watchmaking occurred several centuries ago, the one that definitively consecrated Hublot is much more recent. Certainly, however, no less disruptive.

By Davide Passoni