Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture: salmon according to Frederique Constant

Is it possible to democratise luxury watchmaking? In a market where the gap between buyers of high-end watches and entry-level watches is becoming increasingly pronounced, brands who truly focus on their customers need to develop strategies that make their timepieces worthy of the amounts people spend on them. And they need to do it quickly. Frederique Constant seems to be on the right track, especially if we look at the new version of the Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, presented at the latest Watches and Wonders.

Since its foundation in 1998, Frederique Constant has set itself the goal of making Swiss luxury watchmaking accessible through models with a classic aesthetic typical of high-end watchmaking, but at more affordable prices. This approach has not prevented the brand from constantly refining its models while remaining faithful to its original philosophy. One detail that should not be overlooked is the development of its own movements, which have now exceeded thirty in number.

SMALL IS BETTER

The new Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture perfectly embodies the culmination of this strategy. New, because the model already existed in 2016, when it was presented as the most accessible mechanical perpetual calendar watch on the market. However, that model had a 42 mm case, while the new reference has a diameter of 40 mm. This is another example of the trend towards smaller sizes, which in the case of this Frederique Constant makes all the difference in the world compared to its predecessor. So do the salmon colour of the dial – salmon or copper, depending on how you look at it – and the movement. But let’s take it one step at a time.

As already mentioned, the three-part steel case of the Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture is now 40 mm wide, with a very slim profile for a perpetual calendar: 12.1 mm, the same as its predecessor, the 42 mm Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture. The polished finish, slim bezel and rounded shapes make it elegant and perfectly matching with the onion-shaped crown and its pronounced knurling.

The fluidity of the shapes has allowed the designers to discreetly conceal the recessed pushers for adjusting the dial’s indications on the case middle. The overall profile, soft and rounded, and the prominent lugs give a feeling of greater refinement than the 42 mm model and leave the impression that perhaps a further reduction to 39 mm would have been too much. The combination with the thickness makes the proportions of this case excellent, and suitable for almost all wrists.

THE DIAL OF THE CLASSIC PERPETUAL CALENDAR MANUFACTURE

However, in our opinion, the real star when it comes to the new Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture is the colour of the dial. Most consider it salmon, others prefer to call it copper. What matters is that, combined with the shape of the case and the overall design of the watch, this shade is truly spot on and fascinating. Thanks also to the sunburst finish which bring life and energy to the classic but highly legible layout of the counters, arranged in the same way as the brand’s other perpetual calendars.

The month and year cycle indicator, including leap years, is at 12 o’clock; the date window is at 3 o’clock; the double-lobed window with the moon phase indicator, at 6 o’clock; and the day of the week counter, at 9 o’clock. The counters are slightly recessed and, unlike the rest of the dial, have a concentric motif finish that gives depth and brings movement to the whole. As mentioned above, all the counter indications can be adjusted using a stylus supplied with the watch on the buttons recessed almost invisibly into the case at 4, 8 and 10 o’clock.

Perhaps the only flaw is the moon disc. Although it stands out against a delicate blue sky, it appears a little flat and unfinished. Not so bad though: other refined touches can be found in the polished diamond-cut hour markers and the redesigned dauphine hands, which are now more slender than on previous models. Despite the small size of the case, the characteristics of the dial give the watch a strong presence on the wrist.

ENHANCED FREDERIQUE CONSTANT IN-HOUSE MOVEMENT

After the dial, we come to the movement, the other highlight of the watch. To understand the importance of Frederique Constant’s work inside the case, we must remember that the old perpetual calendar was powered by the in-house FC-775 calibre. This was a 6.7 mm thick automatic movement, operating at 4 Hz, with 26 jewels and a rather modest power reserve of 38 hours. This was the real Achilles’ heel of this and other watches from the brand.

Well, Frederique Constant took the feedback from the market and enthusiasts and put it to good use by creating the FC-776 automatic calibre, which powers this Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture. This is the brand’s 34th in-house movement and, as a bonus, it has almost doubled the power reserve to 72 hours. All this while keeping the same number of jewels, which remain 26, and the 28,800 vibrations per hour.

This is a significant step forward in terms of build quality, which has required a major engineering effort for a young manufacturer such as this. The enhancements are not only mechanical but also in the finishes. The classic perlage and radial Côtes-de-Genève decorations, visible through the transparent sapphire crystal case back, are very attractive. Of course, we are not talking about manual workmanship but industrial finishes, which, however, are of a high quality in their segment.

FREDERIQUE CONSTANT’S CONSISTENCY

The new Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture with salmon dial leaves an overall impression of a classic yet contemporary watch, thanks in part to the brown alligator strap with folding clasp. Above all, however, it feels like a timepiece with a perceived value far higher than its price: £8,995. A mechanical perpetual calendar for less than £9,000, with this level of build quality, is certainly not easy to find.

Of course, all this is in line with Frederique Constant’s mission, which we mentioned at the beginning: the democratisation of Swiss luxury watchmaking. Looking at the launch of this new traditional watch, the feeling is that the brand has done an excellent job. 

Of course, its goal is ambitious, worthy of a young and bold brand that is well aware of its strengths and limitations, so as not to risk falling into cheapness. While the Highlife collection, with its integrated bracelets, could be seen as functional and in line with current trends, the Classics watches, such as this perpetual calendar, demonstrate that Frederique Constant has found its voice, which it continues to refine – and which is well understood by an audience that appreciates traditional watchmaking. 

It has succeeded without betraying its original vocation because, despite having some high-priced flagship models in its collections, it has not abandoned the path of accessible mechanical watchmaking. This is a value that carries weight in the world of luxury, whether democratic or otherwise. It is also valuable in the eyes of those who can no longer afford certain high-end watches but understand and appreciate the true value of a reference, which does not always go hand in hand with the price.

By Davide Passoni