{"id":30818,"date":"2026-11-03T18:10:43","date_gmt":"2026-11-03T17:10:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/?p=30818"},"modified":"2026-11-03T18:10:45","modified_gmt":"2026-11-03T17:10:45","slug":"roger-dubuis-excalibur-biretrograde-calendar","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/en\/roger-dubuis-excalibur-biretrograde-calendar\/","title":{"rendered":"Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar: a return to its roots"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

To mark its 30th anniversary,\u00a0Roger Dubuis<\/strong>\u00a0chose to return to its roots, bringing one of the most distinctive complications in its history back into the spotlight. The result is the\u00a0Excalibur Monobalancier Biretrograde Calendar<\/strong>, a watch that revisits the aesthetic language of the Geneva Maison\u2019s earliest creations through contemporary proportions, materials and design details.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Roger<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Unveiled at\u00a0Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025<\/strong>, the model draws inspiration from the timepieces that helped define the manufacture\u2019s identity in the 1990s and early 2000s. Rather than simply reproducing a historic watch, it offers a new interpretation in which the\u00a0biretrograde complication<\/strong>\u00a0once again takes centre stage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The historical connection extends beyond the design.\u00a0Roger Dubuis<\/strong>\u00a0worked with\u00a0Jean-Marc Wiederrecht<\/strong>\u00a0on the development of a biretrograde mechanism even before the brand was founded in 1995. Its return in an anniversary creation is therefore more than a stylistic reference: it reflects how the brand established its identity by reinterpreting the codes of traditional Geneva watchmaking through a distinctive, personal approach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

EXCALIBUR MONOBALANCIER BIRETROGRADE CALENDAR: THE DIAL AND ITS 1996 INSPIRATION<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The connection with the Maison\u2019s history is especially apparent in the dial layout. The two biretrograde scales revisit a design found on models from 1996: wider at the outer ends and gradually narrowing towards the centre, they trace curves that lend depth to the composition and accentuate the impression that the hands are suspended above the dial. The typography of the calendar indications reinforces this tapered design, with letters and numerals stretched towards the edges and compressed in the centre to follow the contours of the scales. The eye is drawn towards the two skeletonised brass hands and the openings that reveal glimpses of the automatic movement beneath.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Roger<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"Roger<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

The symmetrical arrangement of the indications adds balance to the composition. A small-seconds subdial sits at 6 o\u2019clock, aligned with the \u201cBiretrograde Calendar\u201d inscription at 12 o\u2019clock. The lettering recalls Roger Dubuis\u2019 historic typography and is accompanied by the\u00a0Poin\u00e7on de Gen\u00e8ve<\/strong>\u00a0emblem, while other aesthetic cues evoke the Much More Biretrograde Calendar from the early 2000s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Roger<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"Roger<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

The skeletonised rose gold hour and minute hands, with their distinctive dagger-shaped profiles, further lighten the composition. The silver-toned dial, accented by mother-of-pearl details, is framed by a finely fluted rehaut with framed, gold-plated hour markers, guiding the eye towards the centre. Together, these details reveal a thoughtful exploration of the Maison\u2019s visual codes and design heritage. References to the past emerge through the proportions, inscriptions and graphic elements, without turning the new Excalibur into a replica of its predecessors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

ROSE GOLD AND MOTHER-OF-PEARL DETAILS: MATERIALS AND IDENTITY<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The 18-carat rose gold case, measuring\u00a040 mm<\/strong>\u00a0in diameter and\u00a011.25 mm<\/strong>\u00a0thick, establishes the elegant character of the Excalibur Monobalancier Biretrograde Calendar. It is paired with a silver-toned dial embellished with mother-of-pearl inserts, a material that recalls an important chapter in Roger Dubuis\u2019 history and some of its most individual interpretations of men\u2019s watchmaking.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Roger<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Mother-of-pearl brings a constantly changing visual dimension: depending on the light, its surfaces reveal different shades and reflections, creating a subtle contrast with the graphic structure of the biretrograde indications. The rose gold lends warmth to the composition and reinforces the model\u2019s refined character.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Roger<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"Roger<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Completing the watch is a white rubber strap with a fabric-effect finish, equipped with the\u00a0Quick Release System<\/strong>\u00a0for easy changes and paired with a rose gold folding clasp. This combination creates another contrast between precious materials and contemporary styling.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

RD840 CALIBRE: 60-HOUR POWER RESERVE AND POIN\u00c7ON DE GEN\u00c8VE<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The Excalibur Monobalancier Biretrograde Calendar is powered by the in-house automatic\u00a0RD840<\/strong>\u00a0calibre, which delivers a\u00a060-hour<\/strong>\u00a0power reserve. Operating at a frequency of\u00a04 Hz<\/strong>, the movement drives the hours, minutes and small seconds, along with the calendar\u2019s two retrograde indications.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Roger<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The sapphire crystal caseback reveals the movement\u2019s architecture and oscillating weight. The latter revisits, in updated form, a design introduced by the Maison in 1996, establishing another connection with the earliest chapters of its history.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The RD840 calibre bears the\u00a0Poin\u00e7on de Gen\u00e8ve<\/strong>, a prestigious Swiss watchmaking certification with stringent requirements covering, among other things, construction, finishing and the operation of the watch. For Roger Dubuis, it also reflects a particular approach to manufacturing: the attention devoted to decorating and finishing the components contributes to the visual appeal of a movement designed to be admired as well as worn.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Roger<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"Roger<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

The caseback also carries an inscription expressing the Maison\u2019s relationship with its history. One of the rings visible through the sapphire crystal bears an italicised phrase that has appeared on some of its earlier watches:\u00a0\u201cC\u2019est une montre actuelle, inspir\u00e9e mais pas soumise au pass\u00e9, qui se projette dans un futur qui nous appartient.\u201d<\/em>\u00a0In English: \u201cIt is a contemporary watch, inspired by the past but not bound by it, looking towards a future that belongs to us.<\/em>\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

HOW THE ROGER DUBUIS BIRETROGRADE CALENDAR WORKS<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The defining feature of the Excalibur Monobalancier Biretrograde Calendar remains its system of retrograde indications. This complication holds a special place in Roger Dubuis\u2019 history, turning a calendar function into a central element of the dial\u2019s architecture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Roger<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"Roger<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Drawn to mechanisms that could combine mechanical ingenuity with visual impact, the Maison\u2019s founder saw retrograde displays as an ideal way to express his vision of haute horlogerie. In the late 1980s, he collaborated with\u00a0Jean-Marc Wiederrecht<\/strong>\u00a0on developing and modernising a biretrograde solution. This work predated the brand\u2019s founding in 1995 and helped define some of its earliest creations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The action is straightforward to observe, yet complex to engineer. Unlike a conventional hand that completes a full rotation, a retrograde hand advances along a graduated arc and, on reaching the end of its scale, snaps rapidly back to its starting position. On this model, the two scales display the\u00a0day of the week<\/strong>\u00a0and the\u00a0date<\/strong>: each indication travels along its own arc before returning to the beginning at the end of its respective cycle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Roger<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"Roger<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

A series of mechanical components, including cams, levers and springs, controls the movement of the hands and their rapid return. Managing the energy and the forces generated during the jump is essential to the system\u2019s reliable operation. What appears on the dial as a simple gesture is therefore the result of particularly careful engineering.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the Excalibur Monobalancier Biretrograde Calendar, the angular, skeletonised design of the hands emphasises the motion of the displays, making the complication an integral part of the watch\u2019s overall design.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

ROGER DUBUIS EXCALIBUR BIRETROGRADE CALENDAR: PRICE AND FINAL THOUGHTS<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

With the Excalibur Monobalancier Biretrograde Calendar, Roger Dubuis celebrates the Maison\u2019s 30th anniversary by bringing a complication closely associated with its origins back into the spotlight. The design combines historical references with contemporary choices, supported by selective distribution in Italy that includes the PISA 1940 Flagship Store in Milan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Roger<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Rose gold, mother-of-pearl inserts, the automatic RD840 calibre and the\u00a0Poin\u00e7on de Gen\u00e8ve<\/strong>\u00a0define a watch in which mechanical expertise and aesthetic exploration carry equal weight. The dial makes immediately apparent an idea that has accompanied the brand since its inception: transforming mechanics into a form of visual expression.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Priced at\u00a0\u20ac 69,500<\/strong>, this Excalibur does more than mark an anniversary. It revives a recognisable technical signature and brings it into a creation that embraces the present without losing its connection to the Maison\u2019s history.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By Davide Passoni<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

To mark its 30th anniversary, Roger Dubuis revisits its roots with the Excalibur Monobalancier Biretrograde Calendar, combining rose gold, mother-of-pearl and watchmaking tradition. A return to the historic biretrograde complication, reinterpreted with a contemporary approach.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":722,"featured_media":30832,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[13,9,628],"tags":[59,974,727],"class_list":["post-30818","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-hands-on","category-timepieces","category-weekly-snippets","tag-roger-dubuis","tag-calendar","tag-retrograde"],"yoast_head":"\nRoger Dubuis: Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar: 40 mm rose gold case, RD840 calibre and biretrograde calendar. 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Comincia cos\u00ec il sonetto Orologio da rote, scritto nel XVII secolo da un poeta friulano, Ciro di Pers, oggetto della mia tesi di laurea. Il tema della tesi era diverso, ma avevo conosciuto quel poeta proprio leggendo questo testo, perch\u00e9 gli orologi li ho sempre avuti dentro. E al polso. Il primo \u00e8 stato un Timex digitale (erano gli anni \u201970\u2026), in quarta elementare, e da allora non ho pi\u00f9 smesso. Di comprarli, di scambiarli, di venderli, di amarli, di studiarli. E poich\u00e9 l\u2019aspirazione di tanti \u00e8 trasformare la propria passione in lavoro, nella mia lunga vita professionale, alla fine, a scrivere di orologeria ci sono arrivato: prima alla guida di un trimestrale, poi firmando pezzi per testate nazionali e per i pi\u00f9 autorevoli magazine online italiani. 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