{"id":29444,"date":"2026-06-02T09:43:55","date_gmt":"2026-06-02T07:43:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/?p=29444"},"modified":"2026-06-02T09:43:57","modified_gmt":"2026-06-02T07:43:57","slug":"zenith-gfj-calibre-135-double-signed-with-naoya-hida-co","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/en\/zenith-gfj-calibre-135-double-signed-with-naoya-hida-co\/","title":{"rendered":"Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co."},"content":{"rendered":"\n

There are movements created simply to power a watch and movements that ultimately define an entire era. The\u00a0Calibre 135<\/strong>\u00a0belongs to this second category. Following its contemporary rebirth and the launch of the\u00a0G.F.J.<\/strong>\u00a0collection,\u00a0ZENITH<\/strong>now presents the new\u00a0ZENITH G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co.<\/strong>, the first chapter of the new\u00a0The Double Signed Program<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Zenith<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Crafted in an elegant 39.15 mm platinum case, produced in just 10 pieces and powered by the modern reinterpretation of the famous\u00a0Calibre 135<\/strong>, now\u00a0COSC-certified<\/strong>, the new model represents the meeting point between Swiss watchmaking culture and the rigorous aesthetic philosophy of independent Japanese watchmaker\u00a0Naoya Hida<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Zenith<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

While maintaining the classic\u00a0G.F.J.<\/strong>\u00a0layout, with hours, minutes and small seconds at 6 o\u2019clock, this new interpretation introduces a completely different reading of the project through a hand-engraved solid silver dial and details executed with blue Japanese\u00a0Urushi lacquer<\/strong>, blending two deeply different yet surprisingly complementary watchmaking cultures.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

THE RETURN OF THE\u00a0CALIBRE 135\u00a0BEGAN IN 2022<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Although today the\u00a0Calibre 135<\/strong>\u00a0has firmly returned within the\u00a0ZENITH<\/strong>\u00a0universe, its modern rebirth did not begin with the\u00a0G.F.J.<\/strong>\u00a0The first true reappearance of this historic movement came in 2022 with the\u00a0ZENITH \u00d7 Phillips \u00d7 Kari Voutilainen Observatoire Cal.135-O<\/strong>, a collaboration that many enthusiasts consider one of the most interesting projects of recent years and which we explored in detail in our dedicated article about the\u00a0ZENITH \u00d7 Phillips \u00d7 Kari Voutilainen Observatoire Cal.135-O<\/a><\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"ZENITH<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The idea was born from the desire to recover 10 authentic\u00a0Calibre 135-O<\/strong>\u00a0movements produced between 1950 and 1954, namely the version specifically developed for observatory chronometry competitions. Restored, decorated and hand-finished by\u00a0Kari Voutilainen<\/strong>, these movements gave life to an ultra-exclusive series that brought one of the most important calibres in watchmaking history back into the spotlight for the first time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"ZENITH<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

More than a simple reissue, that project represented a bridge between past and present, demonstrating how a movement created exclusively in pursuit of precision could still speak to contemporary enthusiasts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

WHY THE\u00a0CALIBRE 135\u00a0IS SO IMPORTANT<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Originally developed in 1949, the\u00a0Calibre 135<\/strong>\u00a0was designed with an extremely precise objective: achieving the best possible chronometric performance in observatory competitions.<\/p>\n\n\n

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In its\u00a0135-O<\/strong>\u00a0configuration, prepared by chronometrists\u00a0Charles Fleck<\/strong>\u00a0and\u00a0Ren\u00e9 Gygax<\/strong>, the movement won five consecutive first prizes in the chronometry competitions of the\u00a0Neuch\u00e2tel Observatory<\/strong>\u00a0between 1950 and 1954, an achievement that still represents one of the most important chapters in the history of mechanical chronometry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Even today, many enthusiasts consider the\u00a0Calibre 135<\/strong>\u00a0one of the finest manual-winding movements ever produced by\u00a0ZENITH<\/strong>, not only for the results it achieved but also for the unique architecture developed exclusively in the name of precision.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

FROM THE CELEBRATORY\u00a0G.F.J.\u00a0TO AN EVER-EVOLVING COLLECTION<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The transformation of the\u00a0Calibre 135<\/strong>\u00a0into a contemporary collection arrived in 2025, the year of\u00a0ZENITH\u2019s<\/strong>\u00a0160th anniversary, with the debut of the\u00a0G.F.J.<\/strong>, whose name references the initials of founder\u00a0Georges Favre-Jacot<\/strong>. At the time of its presentation, we analysed in detail the\u00a0ZENITH G.F.J. Platinum Calibre 135<\/a><\/strong>, the celebratory model that marked the contemporary return of the legendary movement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Zenith<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

At\u00a0Watches and Wonders 2026<\/strong>,\u00a0ZENITH<\/strong>\u00a0further expanded the\u00a0G.F.J.<\/strong>\u00a0universe, proving that the project represented the beginning of a true collection rather than an isolated episode. The Maison introduced two new interpretations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The versions presented at\u00a0Watches and Wonders 2026<\/strong>\u00a0explored different materials and aesthetic languages. This new interpretation, however, introduces something different: not a simple variation of dial or case, but a genuine creative dialogue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Zenith<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The first, limited to 161 pieces, combines an 18-carat yellow gold case with a dial featuring a central Bloodstone<\/strong>\u00a0disc, a natural stone characterised by green shades and red inclusions that make every piece unique.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The second, produced in only 20 pieces, instead uses a tantalum case, a rare material known for its density, machining complexity and distinctive bluish-grey tone, paired with a black onyx dial and baguette-cut diamond indexes, offering a decidedly more contemporary interpretation of the original project.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

THE DOUBLE SIGNED PROGRAM\u00a0IS BORN<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

For enthusiasts,\u00a0double signed watches<\/strong>\u00a0represent one of the most fascinating chapters of collecting and contemporary\u00a0Haute Horlogerie<\/strong>. Historically, double signatures identified special collaborations between manufactures and selected partners, gradually becoming extremely sought-after objects.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Zenith<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

With\u00a0The Double Signed Program<\/strong>,\u00a0ZENITH<\/strong>\u00a0chooses to bring this tradition into the present through a series of collaborations with independent watchmakers invited to reinterpret some of the Maison\u2019s most symbolic models while preserving their essence intact.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As explained by\u00a0Benoit de Clerck<\/strong>, CEO of\u00a0ZENITH WATCHES<\/strong>: \u201cWatchmaking has always evolved through exchange: between cultures, crafts and passions. With The Double Signed Program, the intention was not simply to reinterpret our icons, but to create an authentic dialogue between two different visions of watchmaking.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

THE MEETING BETWEEN\u00a0ZENITH\u00a0AND\u00a0NAOYA HIDA<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

To inaugurate this new journey,\u00a0ZENITH<\/strong>\u00a0selected\u00a0Naoya Hida & Co.<\/strong>, the independent Japanese brand founded in 2018 and renowned for its rigorous approach to proportions and classical watchmaking.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Zenith<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"Zenith<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

The aesthetic inspiration comes from the\u00a0NH Type 2A<\/strong>, one of the most recognisable models in\u00a0Naoya Hida\u2019s<\/strong>\u00a0production. The dial does not simply adopt Japanese stylistic codes but becomes a true artisanal expression. All indications, including the\u00a0ZENITH<\/strong>\u00a0and\u00a0Naoya Hida & Co.<\/strong>\u00a0signatures, are hand-engraved by master engraver\u00a0Keisuke Kano<\/strong>\u00a0and subsequently filled with blue Japanese\u00a0Urushi lacquer<\/strong>, a traditional technique requiring multiple applications and extremely delicate polishing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The slender hour and minute hands, characterised by a soft and slightly rounded profile, are crafted from solid gold, machined using high-precision CNC technology and polished by hand, while the small seconds hand undergoes a thermal treatment to achieve its characteristic deep blue tone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Zenith<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

For\u00a0Naoya Hida<\/strong>, this project carries deeply personal meaning: \u201cI have been fascinated by the\u00a0Calibre 135<\/strong>\u00a0ever since I discovered it in the 1990s. The idea was to capture the atmosphere and spirit of the\u00a0Calibre 135<\/strong>\u00a0era through a modern lens. I wanted something essential, but with strong depth.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

EVEN THE STRAPS TELL THE STORY OF JAPAN<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Naoya Hida\u2019s<\/strong>\u00a0influence also continues in the choice of straps. The watch is delivered with three different options:\u00a0Himeji Kurozan leather<\/strong>, a rare Japanese material treated through successive applications of Urushi lacquer<\/strong>, each applied and polished by hand, Kyoto-crafted\u00a0Wagyu leather<\/strong>\u00a0and indigo-coloured Kaihara Japanese denim<\/strong>, originating from the artisanal tradition of Fukuyama, Hiroshima.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Zenith<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Completing everything is a platinum pin buckle engraved with the\u00a0G.F.J.<\/strong>\u00a0initials.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

THE\u00a0CALIBRE 135\u00a0CONTINUES TO LOOK TOWARDS THE FUTURE<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, the manual-winding\u00a0Calibre 135<\/strong>\u00a0retains its historical architecture while being reinterpreted through broad\u00a0C\u00f4tes de Gen\u00e8ve<\/strong>, hand-executed anglage, a modern dark ruthenium finish and yellow gold-coloured details.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Zenith<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The movement also preserves the historic frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz), a choice that maintains the original character of the\u00a0Calibre 135<\/strong>\u00a0while integrating contemporary elements such as a 72-hour power reserve, hacking seconds,\u00a0Breguet hairspring<\/strong>, the famous\u00a0Charles Fleck<\/strong>\u00a0double-arrow regulator and jewel settings mounted on springs to protect the balance staff.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Zenith<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Regulated within \u00b12 seconds per day and officially\u00a0COSC-certified<\/strong>, the movement reaffirms that pursuit of chronometric precision which for more than seventy years has represented the soul of the\u00a0Calibre 135<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

PRICE AND AVAILABILITY OF THE\u00a0ZENITH G.F.J. CALIBRE 135 DOUBLE SIGNED<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Produced in just 10 pieces<\/strong>, the new\u00a0ZENITH G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co.<\/strong>\u00a0will be available at a price of CHF 58,900<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Zenith<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"Zenith<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

More than a simple limited edition, it feels like the meeting point between two different ways of understanding watchmaking: on one side the Swiss tradition of chronometric precision<\/strong>, on the other Japanese minimalism built around proportions, details and subtraction. The result does not shout, does not seek special effects and that is probably its greatest strength: succeeding in giving a new voice to a legend without distorting its character.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By Jacopo Giudici<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

ZENITH G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co.: platino, Urushi blu e storico Calibre 135 COSC in soli 10 esemplari.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":679,"featured_media":29454,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[12,9],"tags":[255,966],"class_list":["post-29444","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news","category-timepieces","tag-zenith","tag-naoya-hida-co"],"yoast_head":"\nZenith: G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co.<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"ZENITH G.F.J. 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