{"id":25747,"date":"2025-04-02T11:17:10","date_gmt":"2025-04-02T09:17:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/?p=25747"},"modified":"2025-04-02T11:17:11","modified_gmt":"2025-04-02T09:17:11","slug":"vacheron-constantin-les-cabinotiers-solaria-ultra-grand-complication-la-premiere","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/en\/vacheron-constantin-les-cabinotiers-solaria-ultra-grand-complication-la-premiere\/","title":{"rendered":"Vacheron Constantin: Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication \u2013 La Premi\u00e8re\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

In 1755, Jean-Marc Vacheron signed his first apprenticeship contract, which defined the starting point of a quest for excellence and a human adventure. To embody 270 years of technical and aesthetic mastery, the Maison has developed\u00a0the most complicated wristwatch in horological history<\/strong>, answering its motto of \u201cDo better if possible, and that is always possible\u201d. With\u00a041 complications<\/strong>, this\u00a0single-piece edition<\/strong>, which is the subject of\u00a013 patent applications<\/strong>, is the result of\u00a0eight years of research and development<\/strong>. A masterpiece of innovation, it incorporates five astronomical functions never previously combined in watchmaking. With 1521 components, the new manufacture Calibre 3655 is housed in a\u00a0white gold case with a 45mm diameter<\/strong>\u00a0and a width of just 14.99 mm, a true feat of miniaturisation. Complementing the technical achievement of this watch, its refined aesthetic is designed to optimise the legibility of its many functions.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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THREE READINGS OF TIME<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

To embrace the different concepts underlying the measurement of time,\u00a0Calibre 3655<\/strong>\u00a0was designed so that it\u00a0can display civil, solar and sidereal time simultaneously<\/strong>, with a gear train specific to each of them.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

CIVIL TIME<\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n

The first gear train is dedicated to the 24-hour day of civil time \u2013 the legal time used throughout the world, which is based on International Atomic Time. This is indicated on the front dial of the watch by the central hour and minute hands, complemented by the display of world time and a second time zone.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

SIDERAL TIME<\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n

The second gear train is dedicated to sidereal time, which is displayed on the reverse side of the watch; minutes are shown on the periphery of the fixed sapphire crystal caseback while hours are displayed on a rotating disc set beneath it. With a duration of 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds, one sidereal day is the time it takes for Earth to complete a full 360\u00b0 rotation when taking a fixed star in the celestial vault as a reference point. Because Earth rotates on its axis while also revolving around the sun, it takes about four minutes less than a calendar day to return to its point of origin relative to the given star.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

SOLAR TIME<\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n

The third gear train \u2013 known as the tropical gear \u2013 is devoted to displaying the peculiarities of solar (or tropical) time. Because Earth\u2019s path around the Sun is elliptical, not circular, and since Earth\u2019s axis is inclined at 23,4\u00b0 to the ecliptic (the plane of its orbit), the time taken for the Sun to pass its zenith varies throughout the year. This difference between the solar day (true) and the civil day (average) of 24 hours, varies from -16 to +14 minutes depending on the time of year and coincides only four times in twelve months (the equinoxes and solstices). This differential, called the equation of time, is displayed on the counter at 6 o\u2019clock on the front dial of the watch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

FIVE RARE ASTRONOMICAL COMPLICATIONS<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Les Cabinotiers Solaria offers five innovative astronomical complications in an unprecedented combination, including a world premiere:\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Four of these complications are related to the apparent path of the Sun and are displayed on the front of the watch \u2013 one on the periphery and three on the counter at 6 o\u2019clock. The fifth one is displayed on the reverse side of the watch.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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POSITION OF THE SUN\u00a0<\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n

Located on the periphery of the dial, this indication tracks the position of the sun in the sky when the watch is correctly oriented according to the cardinal points. Shown as a small yellow circle, it is screen-printed on a rotating sapphire disc that also displays sunrise and sunset times, and the length of the day.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

HEIGHT OF THE SUN<\/strong><\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n

The second complication displays the height of the sun above the horizon, a measurement expressed in degrees of angle that oscillate between 20\u00b0 and 68\u00b0 and indicated by a hand on the same counter as the equation of time at 6 o\u2019clock.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

CULMINATION OF THE SUN\u00a0<\/strong><\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n

A third complication, displayed on the same counter, the culmination of the Sun refers to the time when the Sun reaches the highest point of its trajectory in the sky. Often confused with the zenith (point vertical to the observer\u2019s horizon), culmination depends on the observer\u2019s longitude. At this precise moment, we speak of solar noon, halfway between dawn and dusk.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

DECLINATION OF THE SUN<\/strong><\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n

This ingenious indication corresponds to the angle formed between Earth\u2019s equatorial plane and an imaginary line connecting the Sun to Earth. This declination of the Sun varies according to the seasons. In the Northern Hemisphere, it gradually increases from -23.4\u00b0 at the winter solstice to +23.4\u00b0 at the summer solstice, a value corresponding to the tilt of Earth. Measuring zero at the equinoxes, this solar declination is displayed by a hand vis-\u00e0-vis a three-dimensional gold representation of the Sun that is integrated into the counter at 6 o\u2019clock\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

CONSTELLATION AND SEASONS<\/strong><\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n

The counter at 6 o\u2019clock, dedicated to the particularities of the Sun\u2019s path, is also equipped with a rotating disc displaying the 13 astronomical constellations of the zodiac as well as the seasons, solstices and equinoxes.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

TEMPORAL TRACKING OF CELESTIAL OBJECTS<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

IIn addition to the complications related to the course of the Sun, the fifth complication integrated into Les Cabinotiers Solaria watch is linked to the split-seconds chronograph. This new complication \u2013 a world first \u2013 combines a split-seconds chronograph with a representation of the celestial vault and makes it possible to calculate the time it takes for a constellation or a given star to appear in the middle of the observer\u2019s field of vision.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The technical development of the chronograph mechanism is the subject of a patent application about the pivoting of the split seconds and chronographs tubes that reduces the impact of stopping the split-seconds on the amplitude of the balance wheel while reducing any vibration.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The chronograph readings are displayed on the back of the watch, with a 60-minute counter located at 12 o\u2019clock and a peripheral graduation of seconds. The two split-seconds chronograph hands are anchored at the centre of the dial on which is represented the celestial vault.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On a small rotating disc at the centre of the dial, mounted on the same axis as the chronograph hands, a green triangle indicates the time needed until a selected star will be seen in the viewer\u2019s field of vision. At this moment, on the celestial vault, the selected star will position itself in front of the green index that serves as a reference point \u2013 marked on the ellipse shaded in dark grey on the sapphire crystal disc that displays the movements of the celestial vault. This sapphire case back is marked with a white circle representing the celestial equator (projection of the equator onto the celestial sphere) and a yellow circle for the ecliptic (plane of Earth\u2019s orbit). The movement of the constellations is displayed in the observer\u2019s field of vision in real time.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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To operate the complication, the user visually selects a given star on the celestial chart, then activates the chronograph. When the chronograph hand reaches the green reference marker, stop the first hand but let the second hand continue until it reaches the current position of the chosen star, then stop the hand. The time (in hours) that must elapse until the user will see the chosen star in the sky is indicated by the green triangle on the small counter in the centre of the dial. The peripheral month display marked on the back crystal enables the wearer to adjust the celestial vault to reflect the Earth\u2019s position in its orbit around the Sun.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

PERPETUAL CALENDAR, MOON PHASES AND TIDE MEASUREMENT<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The astronomical functions are complemented by a Gregorian perpetual calendar. In a counter on the front dial at 12 o\u2019clock, it displays all the indications \u2013 with day, month and leap years shown by a small indicator to the right of the counter. These are supplemented by digital dating according to the ISO 8601 standard, including the four-digit year shown within the counter, the week (1 to 52) on the periphery of the counter indicated by a green-tipped hand, and the day (1 to 7) in a small aperture to the left of the counter.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Displayed on the counter at 9 o\u2019clock, the astronomical Moon phase, including the age of the Moon, is driven by a dedicated gear train, with an accuracy maintained for 122 years, without correction. Because all the functions of this timepiece are pushed to their most accomplished interpretation, the lunar cycle is complemented by a mareoscope with details of spring tides and neap tides \u2013 two astronomical occurrences that each occur twice a month, reinforcing or diminishing the tidal amplitude (the elevation of tidal high water above mean sea level).\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

HOURS AND MINUTES, GMT AND WORLD TIME INDICATION<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The time indications also reflect Vacheron Constantin\u2019s quest for perfection. In addition to the central hands indicating hours and minutes, a counter at 3 o\u2019clock displays a second 24-hour time zone with day\/night indication. And, in line with the technicality of Calibre 3655, this mechanism is supplemented by a world time indication (according to standard wintertime \u2013 GMT zero) through a rotating disc bearing the names of the cities representing the 24 time zones.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Adjustment in increments of one hour or one city is done by a single corrector set in the case side. To save space within the mechanism, the adjustment is achieved not via a clutch, as is usual, but by a differential. This technical development is one of the 13 patent applications filed for Calibre 3655.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

AN INNOVATIVE CHIMING MECHANISM<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Accounting for 7 of the 13 patent applications filed, the Westminster minute repeater mechanism is integrated into the base movement along with the chronograph mechanism and tourbillon regulator. One of the first challenges was to accommodate a chiming mechanism without compromising the thinness of the calibre \u2013 especially as the choice fell on a Westminster carillon, the most sophisticated of the musical sequences, involving four gongs and four hammers.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The second challenge was to ensure the sound quality of the repeater\u2019s chimes. Because a multiplicity of movement components absorbs some of the sound vibrations, the more \u201ccluttered\u201d a box is, the less resonant the sound will be.\u00a0The result of extensive research, the gongs are attached to the middle case and have been shaped with a rectangular section. This increases rigidity on the horizontal plane and thus amplifies the sound. As well as optimising resonance, this solution prevents the gongs from colliding when in operation while the watch is being worn.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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However, this first solution had to be supplemented by a parallel development of the hammers. The aim was to maximise the transmission of kinetic energy at the time of strike, while minimising the rebound of the hammers. The solution was to design hammers with a new, particularly compact shape and increased mass. To increase the moment of inertia, the four hammers have been forged in steel with the addition of 18K gold on three of them. Also, to optimise the use of space, they are positioned in pairs on either side of the base plate.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Thanks to this new architecture and the developments made to the striking mechanism, which are the subject of seven patent applications, the musicality of this minute repeater is harmonious and richly sonorous. One of the patent applications is for a new selection method that allows the wearer to choose between an on-demand repeater of the hours only or the traditional hours, quarters and minutes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

MINIATURISATION AND NNOVATIVE DESIGN<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The imperative of miniaturisation has driven the entire conception, development and construction of the calibre, which is designed in two connected sections. The base movement combines the time, chronograph and chiming functions, while an additional mechanism combines all the astronomical indications.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Given the number of complications integrated into Calibre 3655, the connection of the two was a challenge. To resolve this, Vacheron Constantin developed an ingenious \u201cplug and play\u201d mounting system featuring a fast and precise connection mechanism that guarantees perfect indexing. This system, comprised of two elements manufactured with precision, enables the astronomical displays to be driven by simply juxtaposing and attaching the additional module. Two sapphire components, perfectly fitted together, facilitate optimal energy transmission and allow for repeated connection and disconnection without wear, eliminating the need for additional parts.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This solution makes it possible \u2013 during a watch service, for example \u2013 to disassemble the entire additional mechanism, including the dial and hands, in order to access the base movement. This ingenious \u201cplug and play\u201d fastening system is the subject of one of the 13 patent applications filed for the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication watch.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The construction of the dial is as intricate as the movement. It comprises a main plate with four counters, under which two metal discs are inserted \u2013 one bearing the cities at 3 o\u2019clock and the astronomical signs at 6 o\u2019clock \u2013 as well as three sapphire discs, which require machining capabilities of the utmost precision. The peripheral disc displaying sunrise and sunset times and the one indicating the sun\u2019s position measure only 0.18mm. A true feat of manufacturing and assembly. Finally, a third sapphire disc, also 0.18 mm thick, is positioned at 9 o\u2019clock to precisely indicate Moon phases, including spring and neap tide occurrences. This disc is mounted above a metal disc that displays the tide cycle.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another patented innovation designed to reduce the movement\u2019s overall dimensions is that the sunrise and sunset, equation of time, height of the Sun as well as culmination and declination of the Sun functions are managed by a two-sided monobloc multi-cam wheel system, which has reduced the height of the mechanism and increased its precision.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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On the reverse side of the watch, the fixed sapphire crystal and the rotating disc are also very thin. The fixed disc \u2013 which in fact is the transparent caseback and is marked with the months and constellations \u2013 is just 0.6 mm thick at its edge, and the rotating disc, which display the celestial vault and the sidereal time, is barely 0.3 mm thick. The two split-seconds chronograph hands, anchored at the centre of the dial, are made of aluminium to minimise weight.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

LEGIBILITY OF DISPLAYS<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

On the front dial of the watch, a play of contrasts enhances legibility. The striking absence of traditional ornamentation creates a distinctly modern aesthetic. White alternates with black, and different shades of grey are created by a variety of finishes \u2013 sunburst, sandblasted and circular satin-polished \u2013 with white gold indexes highlighted by rhodium plating and satin finishing.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the counter at 6 o\u2019clock devoted to the solar functions, a 5 mm diameter Earth dome in rhodium-plated 18K gold is highlighted by the contrast between highly polished continents with sandblasted oceans. The declination of the sun is highlighted by a polished 18K yellow gold half-sphere.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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On the reverse side of the watch, legibility is ensured despite the restrained colour palette. The sapphire crystal caseback displays the constellations, the equatorial ellipse (grey circle), the ecliptic ellipse (yellow circle), the months, and 60-second graduations. The rotating disc displaying the celestial vault and the 24-hour scale is achieved through metallization in two shades of grey. The two split-seconds chronograph hands, which traverse the star chart, are lacquered in green and red to maximise contrast, these colours are echoed in the 72-hour power reserve indication, which is set on the periphery of the movement to save space. The resulting display is reminiscent of a gauge on a car dashboard.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

THE ART OF FINISHING<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The finishing of the components required great attention to detail, especially since the miniaturisation work carried out on the entire Calibre 3655 was pushed to the extreme, which resulted in tiny and very fine components that required exceptionally careful handling. To showcase the fascinating architecture of the movement, the decoration of the components includes nine types of finishes:\u00a0Bevelling, Brouillage, Circling, Graining, Mirror polishing, Matt polishing, Sandblasting, Satin polishing, Sunray brushing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Among the details, the minute repeater hammers are mirror polished; the bridges are all angled and polished as well as chamfered e is circular grained, and the barrel ratchet is sun rayed. This alternation of finishes transforms the highly technical character of Calibre 3655 into a kinetic artwork.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

On the occasion of the brand\u2019s 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin unveils the one-of-a-kind Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication \u2013 La Premi\u00e8re, the most complicated wristwatch in the history of watchmaking.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":679,"featured_media":25749,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[12,9],"tags":[605,73],"class_list":["post-25747","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news","category-timepieces","tag-grand-complications","tag-vacheron-constantin"],"yoast_head":"\nVacheron Constantin: Solaria Ultra Grand Complication | WATCH INSANITY<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"On the occasion of the brand\u2019s 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin unveils the one-of-a-kind Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication La Premi\u00e8re.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" 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