{"id":13219,"date":"2021-03-10T14:40:00","date_gmt":"2021-03-10T13:40:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/?p=13219"},"modified":"2026-03-10T15:45:05","modified_gmt":"2026-03-10T14:45:05","slug":"non-chiamateli-solo-bracciali-sono-gay-freres","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/en\/non-chiamateli-solo-bracciali-sono-gay-freres\/","title":{"rendered":"Don’t just call them bracelets: they’re Gay Fr\u00e8res"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Vintage watches enthusiasts are always on the hunt for rarities, of which they carefully examine the condition of the case, the dial, the good functioning of the mechanics. But how many, in front of a beautiful timepiece from the past, also evaluate the workmanship and state of a bracelet? Probably those who know the value that a coeval bracelet in good condition gives to a watch, especially if it comes from a renowned manufacturer. Does the name Gay Fr\u00e8res<\/strong> sound familiar?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Gay<\/a><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

GAY FR\u00c8RES  IS ALWAYS ONE STEP FORWARD<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Founded in 1835 in Geneva<\/strong>, Gay Fr\u00e8res was born as a chainiste<\/em><\/strong>, a French word for a manufacturer of chains for pocket watches. In the 19th century, Geneva was very renowned for the quality of these chains, to the point that in the 1940s, according to some sources of the time, their links would have set currency values in northern Italy, Turkey and the Balkans<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

With the progressive replacement of pocket watches with wrist watches, the more enterprising chainistes<\/em>began to create bracelets in addition to chains. Among them there was Gay Fr\u00e8res, who also had an interesting production of jewelry, from necklaces to bracelets to rings, of which not everyone is aware<\/strong>. But the core business remained watch bracelets.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Gay<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The Gay Fr\u00e8res bracelets were characterized by the logo inside the deployant, with the initials G and F and, between them, a chamois head<\/strong>. They were already famous in the early 1930s for their comfort, strength and extensibility. Furthermore, they were quite simple to produce on a large scale. All features that, together with the excellent quality, caught Rolex\u2019s interest and the company became their first bracelets supplier<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Gay<\/a>
Photo Credit HOROBOX<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We forgot an important feature of the Gay Fr\u00e8res<\/strong> bracelets: the creativity of their design. Over the last century, the company has created products that were able to always capture the spirit of the time, using steel, gold and platinum to create bracelets of all kinds, shapes and sizes. Those produced during the Art D\u00e9co period were particularly appreciated for the artistic and productive expertise the manufacture put into them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Gay<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

After converting their production from chains to bracelets at the beginning of the last century, the other important turning point to define Gay Fr\u00e8res\u2019<\/strong> ability and industrial vision was their specialization in steel processing. In the 1930s, steel watch cases began to outnumber those made of  precious metals, and consequently the demand for steel bracelets increased. This alloy, more difficult to create and work with than gold, required a lot of craftsmanship \u2013 of which Gay Fr\u00e8res<\/strong> was far from lacking: this allowed them to further consolidate their leadership in the Swiss watch industry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

EXCEPTIONAL PARTNERS<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Without wronging other brands, it seems that Gay Fr\u00e8res \u2013 at least in the 1940s and 1950s \u2013 reserved the best creations for their most illustrious neighbors, the Geneva-based manufacturers Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin<\/strong>. For both companies, they created bracelets of the highest quality, like that of the watches on which they were mounted.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Photo Credit HODINKEE<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Just think of the classic beads-of-rice bracelets, so versatile that Patek Philippe combined them with both simple steel Calatravas and perpetual calendars in rose gold<\/strong>. Because, despite the mastery of steel processing, Gay Fr\u00e8res<\/strong> continued to produce items made of precious metals as well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

GAY FR\u00c8RES AND THE CHRONOGRAPHS<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

And thus we come to the third industrial turning point for Gay Fr\u00e8res<\/strong>, this time regarding the development of chronographs in the 60s and 70s. The company was able to understand that bracelets created for elegant watches or for sporty timepieces must have different \u2013 maybe subtle but different \u2013 aesthetics and functional features. It was not easy to turn this concept into a product, but the acumen of people at the helm of the manufacture managed to make it a winning milestone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When some watchmakers started to shift their attention towards the creation of chronographs and other professional watches, Gay Fr\u00e8res introduced new designs and produced both beads-of-rice and Oyster-type bracelets for companies such as Heuer<\/strong>. It is not uncommon to find both of these bracelets on different models of the brand, including the first Carreras <\/strong>and Autavias<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Gay<\/a>
Photo Credit HODINKEE<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The case of Zenith is even more sensational: for its new chronograph, the El Primero, the company ordered both ladder and hollow-link bracelets<\/strong>. The first ones have become something of Zenith’s hallmark, to the point that not everyone knows it’s a Gay Fr\u00e8res design<\/strong>. These bracelets have given Zenith watches a distinctive look (it is no coincidence that they are re-proposed in the modern Revival editions<\/strong> of the brand), so much so that today the original steel ones can even cost thousands of euros. An amount that some people would be ready to spend to match those bracelets to the case of their El Primero<\/strong> from the 1960s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Gay<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

THE INTEGRATED BRACELETS<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Then came the 70s, the years of the integrated bracelets, in which the balance between elegant and disruptive design that characterized the Gay Fr\u00e8res<\/strong> bracelets attracted some of the most established brands, both former customers such as Patek Philippe<\/a><\/strong>, and others who had never worked with steel. One among all: Audemars Piguet<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Photo Credit SOTHEBYS<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Before the Royal Oak<\/strong>, the manufacture had only created elegant and complicated watches \u2013 all made with precious metals \u2013 but relied on Gay Fr\u00e8res’ expertise with steel for the design of the first integrated bracelet on their quintessential sport watch. The same happened a few years later, when Patek Philippe launched the Nautilus<\/strong>. Could it be a coincidence that both watches, in addition to the signature of Gerald Genta<\/strong>, had the same bracelet supplier?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Photo Credit HODINKEE<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

SWISS PRIDE<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Of course not, because in 1976 the company was much bigger than both of the aforementioned manufacturers. Still family-owned, run by the brothers Jacques-Hubert and Jean-Fran\u00e7ois Gay, Gay Fr\u00e8res was one of the largest factories in Geneva and employed over 500 people<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Understandably, a factory with these characteristics of excellence and with such a strong ability to understand the market and anticipate the customer\u2019s wishes could not remain independent in an era of great merging. In fact, in 1998 Gay Fr\u00e8res was acquired by Rolex, to which they had begun to supply Bonklip bracelets in the 1930s and with which they had developed the legendary Oyster bracelet<\/strong>. Along with these, the other bracelets that characterize Gay Fr\u00e8res are the ladder one made for Zenith and the beads-of-rice ones<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Not bad for a company that has never defined itself otherwise than a chainiste<\/em> and that even  today, despite belonging to Rolex<\/a><\/strong>, still proudly claims its artisan and independent origins.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By Davide Passoni<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Born in 1835 producing chains for pocket watches, Gay Fr\u00e8res throve through the ages by creating bracelets that have become legendary.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":722,"featured_media":13249,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[10,9],"tags":[75,18,114,255],"class_list":["post-13219","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories","category-timepieces","tag-audemars-piguet","tag-patek-philippe","tag-rolex","tag-zenith"],"yoast_head":"\nNon chiamateli solo bracciali: sono Gay Fr\u00e8res | Watch Insanity<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Born in 1835 producing chains for pocket watches, Gay Fr\u00e8res throve through the ages by creating bracelets that have become legendary.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index,follow\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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Passoni","image":{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"en-US","@id":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/02\/Davide_Passoni_Watch_Insanity-1-96x96.jpg","url":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/02\/Davide_Passoni_Watch_Insanity-1-96x96.jpg","contentUrl":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/02\/Davide_Passoni_Watch_Insanity-1-96x96.jpg","caption":"Davide Passoni"},"description":"\u00abMobile ordigno di dentate rote \/ lacera il giorno e lo divide in ore\u00bb. Comincia cos\u00ec il sonetto Orologio da rote, scritto nel XVII secolo da un poeta friulano, Ciro di Pers, oggetto della mia tesi di laurea. Il tema della tesi era diverso, ma avevo conosciuto quel poeta proprio leggendo questo testo, perch\u00e9 gli orologi li ho sempre avuti dentro. E al polso. Il primo \u00e8 stato un Timex digitale (erano gli anni \u201970\u2026), in quarta elementare, e da allora non ho pi\u00f9 smesso. Di comprarli, di scambiarli, di venderli, di amarli, di studiarli. E poich\u00e9 l\u2019aspirazione di tanti \u00e8 trasformare la propria passione in lavoro, nella mia lunga vita professionale, alla fine, a scrivere di orologeria ci sono arrivato: prima alla guida di un trimestrale, poi firmando pezzi per testate nazionali e per i pi\u00f9 autorevoli magazine online italiani. Uno di questi \u00e8 \u201cinsano\u201d: riuscite a indovinare qual \u00e8?","url":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/en\/author\/dave\/"}]}},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13219","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/722"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=13219"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13219\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":16395,"href":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13219\/revisions\/16395"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/13249"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=13219"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=13219"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=13219"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}