{"id":12861,"date":"2020-12-17T18:15:24","date_gmt":"2020-12-17T17:15:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/?p=12861"},"modified":"2026-02-26T10:25:42","modified_gmt":"2026-02-26T09:25:42","slug":"la-rivoluzione-del-secondo-polso-ufficiale","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.watchinsanity.it\/en\/la-rivoluzione-del-secondo-polso-ufficiale\/","title":{"rendered":"The Revolution Of The Official Second Wrist"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

THE \u201cPRE-OWNED\u201d SEGMENT IN THE DIRECT CHANNELS OF HIGH-END WATCHMANKING BRANDS, AND THE BUYER\u2019S EXPERIENCE IN A SECTOR THAT HAS ALWAIS BEEN RELUCTANT TO NOVELTY<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The global market\u2019s most advanced dynamics, as we will see shortly, are going in a very precise direction, putting as much emphasis as possible on \u201ccustomer care\u201d (that set of services provided to customers before, during and after the purchase of a product or service)\u2013while the high-end watchmaking sector, historically, is little inclined to innovation and even less sensitive to transparency.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Capgemini<\/strong> \u2013 a world leader in consulting services with 265,000 employees in almost 50 countries around the world \u2013 tells us where to look. In a 2019 study entitled \u201cOvercoming the Expectation Gap: The Customer Engagement Imperative,\u201d<\/strong> Capgemini records that 80% of customers consider the shopping experience to be more important than the product itself. And this, my friends, is an atomic bomb on the certainties of the barons of our industry, focused more on profit margins than customer care.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Then there is a wonderful phrase that always fits everything that concerns sentient human beings, in life, at work, everywhere. It is by C\u00e9line<\/strong> and it says so: \u201cTo arrive where one must in the state that one can.<\/strong><\/em>\u201d A sentence written by one of the greatest writers in the history of mankind in the unforgettable Voyage au bout de la nuit<\/em>, and that we can also apply to the latest strategies of the great contemporary watchmaking brands regarding such a fundamental theme as that of the second wrist proposed by official sales channels (single-brand boutiques or institutional sites)<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

LET\u2019S BE CLEAR: FOR WATCHMAKERS, THE SECOND WRIST HAS ALWAYS BEEN CONSIDERED A WORSE NUISANCE THAN SELECTIVE WASTE COLLECTION<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

We all know how things worked until \u201cyesterday.\u201d Most of the official dealers never liked to handle used watches, not even their own, unless they were the waiting lists\u2019 usual \u201chot reference.\u201d And the most serious among them would tell you, in confidence: if you buy this model (and we are talking about all brands: big groups and independents, nobody excluded, even the legendary ones, except for the \u201chot references\u201d \u2013 always them), then be aware that if you get tired of it I won\u2019t be able to exchange it. Ah, well, okay. Single-brand boutiques: even worse. Second hand? \u201cPoor guy,\u201d says the expression on the face of the salesman \u2013 salesman who ironically makes the same salary as 80% of permanent employees in Italy. Ah, right, okay again.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Inevitably, with similar strategies, another market was born which today is dominated by the Chrono24<\/strong> portal\u2019s global extent. And that adds up a parallel ranking of the most famous official dealers with a turnover very similar to that of the top second-wrist dealers\u2013until recently considered by the official world to be worse than the \u201cmiddle world\u201d of \u201cMafia Capitale.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Now the official market is running two separate races. The waiting list race and the race of dusty window displays, of watches that do not even sell with a 30% discount. Inevitably, official multi-brand dealers have timidly started to deal with second-hand watches (certainly not all brands and models), withdrawing and exchanging them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the other hand, what do the brands upstream think? They remain on standby, meaning \u201ctime will tell,\u201d for the good peace of mind of top managers and their super-salaries, who still consider managing second-wrist watches\u2013and who instead could help remove some dust from the windows\u2013like having to get rid of an Eternit roof.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

THE AVANT-GARDE? BETWEEN THE GREAT F.P. JOURNE, AUDEMARS PIGUET AND RICHARD MILLE<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

For a sector on standby, waiting to understand how to behave, there is an avant-garde podium on which the most far-sighted elite brands stand, those that have proactively dusted off C\u00e9line’s epic sentence: \u201cTo arrive where one must in the state that one can.\u201d It was F.P. Journe<\/strong> \u2013 one of the greats among the greats, always consistent with himself \u2013 the first to take the issue seriously and manage it openly in its boutiques<\/strong>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"FPJ<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Audemars Piguet followed: since 2018, the brand has been testing the sale of second-hand products only in its Geneva boutique<\/strong>. And, third on the podium, Richard Mille who is doing the same through its London boutique Ninety<\/a>, at 90 Mount Street\u2013the first exclusive retailer of its own used watches in Europe and the Middle East<\/strong>. The latter is, by choice, much more difficult to find than other super-exclusive products, even as a point of sale for new watches. And this first step in managing second-hand watches \u2013 which one day perhaps will be extended to all boutiques around the world \u2013 has the potential to accelerate further the success of the brand. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"RM<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
  • \"\"<\/figure><\/li>
  • \"\"<\/figure><\/li>
  • \"\"<\/figure><\/li>
  • \"\"<\/figure><\/li>
  • \"\"<\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    In addition, among the far-sighted, three other high-profile independent brands should be mentioned for their official handling, with institutional seriousness, of their second-wrist models issue. And they are three manufactories based in Geneva: MB&F<\/strong> and Urwerk<\/strong>, which sell their used watches directly on their e-commerce platforms, and Meccaniche Veloci<\/strong> \u2013by the very Italian Cesare Cerrito \u2013 which collects its used models in Plan-les-Ouates ahead of a new model\u2019s purchase.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    CONCLUSION: THE INSTITUTIONAL \u201cPRE-OWNED\u201d IS A LEVER NOT TO BE UNDERSTIMATED TO ENHANCE THE PURCHASING EXPERIENCE<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    The management of the second-hand business directly by the official houses is a well-established practice in other sectors (such as automobility), with dedicated services and guarantees. In watchmaking, we are at the dawn of sporadic initiatives by independent brands, with the \u201cdeafening silence\u201d of the large groups: Kering, LVMH, Richemont and Swatch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Without even entering into complex evaluations on how much the controlled sale of used watches can affect new watches sales, managing pre-owned watches sales can certainly help brands to keep used watches\u2019 value and flow under control and, above all, can guarantee the customer a seamless purchase experience including, if desired, home delivery<\/strong>. And this is the point, in a world\u2013of consumers\u2013that considers the shopping experience to be more important than the product itself. This is what we must bet on, even if we already make a trillion trillion dollars: transparency, trust and seriousness. And not only in the watchmaking industry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    By Michele Mengoli<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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